Toledo to Rondo

Was sad to leave Toledo but not for long as we were presented with one wonderful place after another. On the drive to Granada we stopped at a small town where we were taken up the hill to tour an ancient grain windmill. The view was panoramic and was quite fascinating to go up inside the windmill and see how they actually worked. We also stopped at a lovely restaurant for lunch where two locals were separating the strings of saffron from the winter crocus stamens and then drying them for sale. Can certainly understand the price of saffron when one sees how labour intensive it is.

We travelled through the plains of La Mancha with literally millions of olive trees as far as one could see again.

We arrived in Granada later in the day and after settling in we went for a short orientation walkabout before going up to the Albaysin hill for a magnificent dinner overlooking the lit up Alhambra. What a perfect spot to dine.  Spent yesterday morning at the Alhambra.  This Moorish palace is one of the most visited sights in Europe and one does not need to wonder why.  The architecture is exquisite and the beauty was impossible to capture on film though that did not stop me from trying.  The plaster work on the walls is so detailed and has survived beautifully for hundreds of years.  Throughout the grounds both inside and out there are numerous water features adding to the beauty and serenity of this unbelievable palace.  The gardens are all carefully kept and in places the wonderful aroma of different herbs was delightful.  The stroll back to the old town was down a lovely shaded walkway to end the visit perfectly.  We spent the afternoon visiting the Royal Chapel where King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella are buried.  The art work in the museum there dated back to the 14th century and was once part of the largest art collection ever by a woman as it belonged to Queen Isabella.  All of the paintings are on wood and included two by Botticelli and other masters that those versed in art would recognize more than myself.  We then visited the cathedral which was massive. It is one of only two Renaissance churches in Spain but over the time it was built has both Gothic and Baroque features as well.  All of these styles together gave it a very different feeling than some of the other churches we have visited. The inside of the cathedral was painted with lime in the 18th century during a disease outbreak and the worshipers liked it so much that it has stayed this way.  The white walls and pillars make it much brighter than other cathedrals.

In the evening several of us ventured out to an authentic Morrocan restaurant which was delicious.  This morning we set off to Ronda. With a short stop along the way we were in Ronda by noon. Ronda is a hilltop Andalusian town with the typical white buildings of this area. Our first visit was to the bullring which was the first great Spanish bullring and dates back to 1735. It is now only used one week a year but was interesting to see the ring and walk through where the bulls are kept and released into the ring.  The museum provided some Insite into the sport if you call it that and was enough for me.  The most impressive sight in Ronda is the bridge built in the 17 th century which spans the gorge connecting the two parts of the city. The gorge is 200 feet wide and 360 feet deep so the bridge is most impressive though not enjoyed by those who do not like heights.  Eric and I had a wonderful tasting menu at a lovely restaurant looking over the valley.  We are spending the night in a charming country inn outside of town which oozes with character. The bar is on the oh our system which would certainly be rare at home.

Visit to the flour mills

Harvesting saffron from the crocus stamens

Inside the Alhambra

Stunning water features

Imagine lying in bed and gazing at this

Inside the cathedral

Ronda bullring

Ancient bridge connecting the two parts of town

Ronda sitting high above the gorge

Toledo

What a magnificent city.  This world heritage town dates back 2500 years with a rich history of Romans, Moorish, Jewish and Christian populations.  The old town itself is surrounded by walls and then the Tajo River which flows down to Portugal. Delightful old foot bridges crossover the river to the old town to add to the charm. The old town is very walkable with windy narrow streets meandering up and down the hill. Streets are rough cobblestone and it beats me how the locals navigate them in high heel shoes.

In the am we did a bit of a tour with the local guide visiting the site of El Grecos masterpiece ,The Burial of the Count of Orgaz painted in 1586 depicting the artists conception of the transition from heaven to earth.  We spent some time n the Jewish synagogue which had at one time been converted into a Catholic Church when the Christians forced the Jewish people to either convert or leave the country.  The favorite stop was the Toledo Cathedral .  It is the second largest in Spain and is absolutely awesome. The alter and choir were beautiful but the highlight for me was behind the alter where a large hole was cut in the ceiling to allow the light in for mass. The sculptures adorning this opening and the back of the alter are a mix of heaven and earth. A highlight is a large alabaster carving of the last supper which is larger than life.  One could spend days in here and not see it all

We wandered the streets enjoying a traditional meal of the area including partridge and venison.  Our exploring took us along the walls of the city and out onto an ancient bridge crossing the river. After a wine tasting in the cellar of our hotel several of us ventured out to enjoy sights of the city that were lit up. All and all an amazing day.

Cathedral

The last supper

Gateway into Toledo 

Ancient footbridge leading into town

Steeple at night 

Cathedral door model made completely of marzipan the local delicacy.

 

Madrid and Segovia

Our arrival in Madrid was not without fanfare. There was a very large demonstration in the square outside our hotel by students and teachers. The police were out in force and all seemed well controlled. However when we returned from dinner last night at about 10pm the students were once again out in full force as were the riot police. I can happily say it was my first time seeing police in full riot gear including shields etc and I do hope not one to repeat anytime soon.  Luckily by morning all was quiet.

Yesterday we did a walking tour of Madrid with a definite highlight being a. Isit to the convent of cloistered nuns.  We went in to but some cookies from the turntable but our visit coincided with the arrival of a male expected by the mother superior,perhaps a doctor or other professional, and was the first time either of our guides had ever actually seen one of the nuns in all their years of going there.  Visited a great market where one could get almost any delicacy ready to eat along with drink of choice. Tried to go back at two which is lunchtime here but was full to the rafters.  Carried on to the Prado Museum where we had the most fantastic guide who brought the paintings of the Spanish Masters alive. Never have I got so much out of an art museum.  Spent the afternoon exploring more of the city, including a beautiful park,pedestrian streets,and stopping for a snack and cafe con leche.  Last night a group of us went out for paella.  Over rated from my point of view but was a fun evening.

Today we spent the day in Segovia and it was all and far more than I expected.  First we toured the roman agueduct, built 2000 years ago to supply water to the castle. The big difference from the Pont de Gar and this is that in Segovia the agueduct runs right through town.  Absolutely amazing. The old town of Segovia is the type of town I love with ancient narrow streets meandering amongst buildings that have stood for generations.  Wound our way through town to the castle on the hill where the views were panoramic and the history palpable. Climbed up the tower on a narrow circular staircase to be rewarded with even better views. The crowning glory of the day was our lunch where we were treated to the specialty of the region which is roast suckling pig.  The restaurant has been here for several generations and happened to Eric's and my delight to be a Chaine member.  After several delicious courses we were presented with the main event which was whole suckling pigs. They were so tender that they were cut with a ceramic plate. The meat was tender if not a bit fatty and the skin was the perfect crackling.  Accompanied by a great local wine it was the perfect meal.  Tonight we are going to head out for some cava and tapas.  Such is the life.

Buying cookies from the cloistered nuns that are never seen by the outside world. Is it any wonder that their numbers are dwindling.

They really like impatience here and the effect is beautiful

Wonderful food choices in the market

Amazing structure to last 2000 years

Even moat and drawbridge are intact

The main event

Fellow Chaine member

Segovia Cathedral

Last days in Barcelona

Perfect weather continues allowing our exploration of this magnificent city. Yesterday after a little shopping for some essentials that we needed like a pair of shoes we walked down to the waterfront and explored the aquarium. Though we are very familiar with marine life was interesting to see the different species that were represented here. Especially fond of the different seahorse aquariums.  After another great lunch we met with our tour group. There are only 20 in the group which makes for a nice number. After introductions and a n overview of the tour we set off for a tapas dinner in a small local establishment, passing on the way ,The 4 Cats, which was a favorite hangout of Picassos.  Dinner was an amazing assortment of tapas including foie gras and pulpo so I was very happy. I look forward to meals if this is any indication of quality.

This morning we had a walking tour of Gothic Barcelona by a local guide which was so interesting and informative. She had an in depth knowledge of history and a very easy way of imparting it.  The hours flew by.  We ended at the Sagrada Famillia which can look somewhat gaudy at first glance but with her detailed information regarding the meaning and building of this unique structure I fell in love with it.  I found it especially poignant that Gaudi designed the outside of this church to bring the bible to all the people, even those illiterate and those who did not enter into the church. It is predicted that the church will be finished in 2026 and I hope to see it at this time.  Eric and I spent the rest of the afternoon exploring some of the maze of side streets.  Tomorrow we are off to Madrid and more adventure.

Loved these cute little horses.

Love to see him snorkeling

These dragon fish look almost prehistoric

Barcelona Cathedral 

Impossible to capture the size of this immense church

First facade of the Famillia to be completed depicting the birth of Christ

One could stand and gaze upon this facade for hours and keep finding new details

Light and motion within is astounding

Unlike other churches visited Gaudi designed all the windows to be bright and bring in the colors of nature making for an ever changing interior as the outside light changes

Couloirs reflecting from the windows onto the white stone

Fun pieces of jewelry at a unique (and expensive) store in a little alley

Unique food items not on my shopping list!

Montserrat and the Beaches of Barcelona

The last two days have been distinctively different but both amazing.  On Friday we took a tour to Colonia Guell and Montserrat.  Colonia Guell is an old industrial town which was owned by Guell for all his factory workers to live in. By providing them with housing and all the amenities that hey needed he kept his employees happy and working.  As Guell was Gaudi's primary patron there are Gaudi touches through the town wih the outstanding one being the church and crypt that Guell commissioned him to build. This was the first church that Gaudi built and was fascinating. The whole structure is curvy with beautiful windows scattered around. Even the pews in the church have a Gaudi design. As the factory closed in 1973 much of the town is deserted but was a great stop on the tour.  From there we were off to Montserrat, a monastery and the oldest choir school in Spain for boys 8-14 in age. This was rebuilt in the 1800 s after being destroyed by Napoleon. The monastery is built on the most amazing rock face and the views are spectacular. We first took a rack railway up to the monastery. For an even better view we later took a funicular up to the very top. Loved it but not as good for those with a height problem. The basilica was beautiful with the unfortunate part being that it seemed that half the school children in Spain were there and had no respect for the silence within a church. We did get to hear the boys choir sing which was beautiful but was a long wait for two songs.  We were so lucky to have another beautiful day so we could enjoy all the vistas.

From history and religion we spent yesterday walking along the boardwalk and beaches of Barcelona. The beaches themselves are wonderful and along the way there are marinas, a multitude of restaurants the aquarium and on and on.  The wide expanses of beach are dotted with volleyball nets and childrens play apparatus. Breakwaters have been built so that there are calm beaches interspersed with surfing waves. Fun to sit in a beachside bar with a wine in hand watching a surfing lesson. Children played in the sand nearby while their parents also enjoyed a refreshment.  Very civilized.

Entrance to church

Exterior with very unusual windows

Beaches of Barcelona in October yet!

Street performers abound in this city

Comfy but hard chairs along the walkway

Some of the peaks of Montserrat 

View down from top of the funicular

Part of the cloisters with the mountan showing through

Certainly no expense was spared when building churches.

Having fun with one of the living statues along Las Ramblas. They all have to audition so are very good.

Puissilacon to Barcelona

The last few days have been incredible and definitely a sharp contrast to each other.  On Sunday we left Montpellier and travelled to Puissilacon where I was fortunate to spend a couple of days with Maggie's friends Ian and Jenny. They have an amazing home in the hilltop village of Puissilacon which they share with several other Australian friends.  It is set in this quiet town that is looked over by a centuries old castle. I loved walking the streets and was fun to contemplate what type of homes are hidden by the ancient exteriors.  We walked over to the next village, through the grape fields for beer, explored a couple of the most incredible cemeteries where the respect for past generations is so touching.  On Monday we travelled to first the locks at Bezier which we went up nine years ago in our rented canal boat Pigasse. Was really fun to watch another boat going up but not as much as doing it ourselves!  We the drove to the Etang which we had also crossed previously when on the canal trip. The Etang is covered with oyster and mussel farms so no better place to go to a seaside restaurant which served up a shellfish Buffett like I have never seen. There was an endless supply of oysters, mussels,crab,prawns,snails,clams and scallops washed down with a lovely Pinet..so relieved that I was with others who also made several trips to the buffet.  Had a lovely time for the two days and was wonderful to be in such a lovely spot.

Tuesday morning saw me hopping on the train to Barcelona for a much anticipated reunion with Eric. We have both had such remarkable experiences and have so much to share.  Barcelona has already far exceeded my expectations.  It is truly a city that has it all.  From the sprawling Gothic old town where one could wander the winding streets for days discovering new restaurants,stores, old churches and wonderful examples of architecture.  The influence of Gaudi is quite evident in many areas of the city and certainly adds a flair.  On the Hop on and Off tour we were treated to many different areas and sights from the palace to the Olympic Stadium and even the Barcelona Soccer Stadium.  The streets are alive with every type of vendor and street performer.  The large market on La Ramblas is a feast for the eyes selling every type of fresh food imaginable.  To add to the wonder of this city there is a long coastline with beautiful beaches, bustling restaurants, huge marinas, world trad center and on and on it goes.  So glad that we have a few more days to explore.  Spent a good part of today at Parc Guell which was designed by Gaudi in the early 1900's as an exclusive gated community but due to lack of sales was turned over to the city as a park.  It is a photographers delight and one we will not forget.  It is said that being dropped on by a bird is good luck and if this is so I should have good luck for the rest of my life as they have large birds here.  Do not think I need to elaborate.  Well must go and grab a wine!

Outside terrace at Ian and Jenny's. Rather lovely place for a meal.

Delightful street in the town

Seafood like I like it!

One example of a Gaudi design

Market made me wish I lived here

Eggs anyone?

Entrance to Parc Guell

Incredible stone work.

Beautiful mosaic work, gardens and stone work.