Tuesday, 31 January 2017

Yangon to Pyay

Today we went on a seven hour bus journey to Pyay where we would board the AmaPura for our cruise on the  Ayeyarwady River. Though the road was apparently the major thoroughfare it was narrow and bumpy and it would seem that horns here may wear out from over use as our bus driver was constantly on his to make the locals on heir various forms of transport move over to let us by.  Motorcycles are not allowed in the cities but are the main form of transport in the rural areas and carry the whole family.  We passed through dozens of small villages with the residents selling heir wares and food along the roadside mostly to other locals as this area is not high in tourist traffic and the local "restaurants "do not call out to the weaker stomachs of the tourist as the hygiene leaves much to be desired.  Everywhere we passed by or stopped the people were so warm and friendly.  Their faces are always lit with welcoming smiles and though most are very poor none are begging.  Friendly merchants encourage you to take pictures of their unusual foods.  One fellow was selling barbecued sparrows as well as several different types of dried fish which he was generously trying to give Tina and I samples of.  Tina tried a small nibble of a fish and we graciously turned down the rest.
As we travelled the countryside it was very apparent why this is called the golden country.  One does not go far without spotting a golden pagoda, and often several at a time.  We are told that even though the majority of the people are poor they still give a large percentage, sometimes up to sixty percent, to the temple.  Their belief in reincarnation is so strong that this is so important to them.
The land is flat as far as you could see and often covered with large expanses of rice paddies which is a major export for Myanmar as well as a staple in their diet being served at every meal.
As we neared the river we passed through a teak forest.  It is now against the law to cut down teak trees in Myanmar as the forests were earlier decimated and take a very long time to regrow.
Arriving in  Pyay we boarded the ship via a golden sand pathway to start our adventure on the river.
Workers in the rice fields along he way
Assortment of local delicacies including dried fish and barbecued sparrows
Quails eggs also were a very popular item every where that we stopped.
Along the way amongst the poor villages we came to the most beautifully kept war memorial with stones for each soldier, Burmese and British killed in the war
In such a dry area the grass was green and  there was a well maintained plant beside each stone.  It was a wonderful tribute to those who gave their lives so we could live free.
Typical roadside sight
Local restaurant along the way.  They must do a booming business in plastic chairs and tables as they all seem to have them.








Friday, 27 January 2017

Myanmar

After nearly 18 hours of flying Eric, Steve, Tina and I arrived in Yangon tired but excited to start our adventure. Formerly Burma and once under British rule Myanmar has only opened up to tourism since 2010. Yangon is the country's chief port and now has a population of over 7 million people.  It is a city of amazing contrasts.  Old colonial buildings sit side by side with new hotels and a large percentage of the population still conduct a large part of their lives on the sidewalks selling food and wares and meeting with their neighbors.  The import of foreign cars was only allowed after 2010 and the infrastructure was never developed to deal with the number of vehicles that suddenly appeared thus creating total mayhem on the streets. A driving nightmare. 
The four of us started off by visiting the Yangon zoological gardens which were created in 1905 as a zoo and garden for the people of Burma.  The zoo had a wonderful assortment of animals including elephants, tigers, white rhinos, asian bears, and a red panda.  They had a huge assortment of deer which coming from home seemed odd to see in a zoo.  The bird collection, especially the hornbills was quite extensive.  It was quite evident that they do not put the same value on animal welfare as we do as the enclosures left a lot to be desired.  We later visited the Sule Pagoda which is believed to be built 2200 years ago. Almost 90 percent of the people of Myanmar are Buddhists so pagodas are plentiful.  The gold leaf on the spires is stunning in the sunlight and when lit up at night.
Our first day of our AMA tour we started out with a walking tour of downtown Yangon.  It was fascinating to stop along the sidewalks at the small stands set up as our guide explained what they were selling.  It was particularly interesting to watch the gentleman vendor prepare the betel nut and lime for chewing.  This is an addiction in this part of the world and is a leading cause of oral cancer.  We also went see the giant reclining Buddha which is over 66 meters long housed inside a pagoda and visited Royal Lake to view a reproduction of a royal barge.  We finished our morning tour at the large Scott Market which was a massive complex of adjoining buildings with thousands of vendors selling their wares.  We stepped briefly into the food section but the conditions and smells sent us elsewhere for lunch. 
Our last visit of the day was to the Shwedagon Pagoda which was constructed 2500 years ago. Over the centuries many kings and queens have added their weight in gold to the spire and it has risen higher and higher until. It now stand at 326 feet.  It is topped with a 76 carat diamond and the top is embedded with 4351 diamonds with a total weight of 1800 carats as well as several thousand rubies.  The main spire is covered with hundreds of ponds of pure gold.  The value is staggering.  New shrines and Buddhas are built where space allows by families that want to contribute to their belief for eternity. This is said to be the oldest Buddhist shrine in the world and is a wonder of the religious world.  People come here to worship as well as to spend time with family and friends as a social gathering.  Fascinating to get a glimpse into this way of life.
Red panda bear.  Hard to photograph in the enclosure.
White rhino resting in the hot sun.
Asian black bear having a little sit down.  Loved the markings on his chest.
A lot of the architecture in the downtown is English colonial.  The hot sun and the heavy rains in the rainy season where 200 inches of rain in four months is the norm is very hard on these buildings.
This woman was selling bags of dried fruit and candy at her sidewalk stall.
This gentleman was preparing the betel nut for chewing.  This business can be very lucrative and one can make up to 20 dollars a day which is a lot considering that the minimum wage is 3 dollars per day.
This man was making noodles from a block of tofu and then making soup which customers sitting on small stools and eating before continuing on their way.
This building was still occupied though the elements and lack of upkeep gave it and many others an abandoned look.
The giant reclining Buddha though in a pagoda had an almost showy feeling about it.
This craftsman was fascinating to watch.  He was creating an intricate design with handmade noodle like pieces of cement on this chair to put a Buddha statue on.
This is the barge at Royal Lake
The wooden boardwalk goes for over two kilometers around the edge of the lake and is quite scenic.
This woman is sorting and packaging garlic for sale on the street.
The golden Jewell encrusted spire at the Shwedagon Pagoda reaches a height of 326 feet,  unfortunately too far for the eye to be able to see the precious stones.
Dozens of Buddhas and statues and places of worship surround the main spire.
Numerous monks and nuns are throughout the pagoda, many interacting with the visitors.
A worshiper in front of one of the new Buddha shrines being erected by an individual family.
A small child learning how to ring the bell.  A place of worship for all ages.