Santiago to Finisterre to Montpellier

Well my Camino tour finished with great fan fair. Our farewell dinner was held at the parador by the cathedral which was a pilgrims hospital 500 year ago and has now been converted to a five star hotel retaining its history both inside and outside.  We were taken on a tour to start the evening where our guide told us that it was almost always so that patients entered the hospital alive and all left dead.  Thank God that has changed. We were greeted at the entrance to our beautiful dining room by some Spanish musicians who with their music and song encouraged many to get up and dance.  This was followed by a magnificent dinner during which we all exchanged Camino stories. A "witch" then arrived and stirred up a wicked Galacian brew which after imbibing in more musicians had us dancing around the table. Marly Tours presented each of us with a matted picture of the group at the start of the trail which will be a nice keepsake.  The next morning we finished our time together with a guided tour of this ancient city full of legend and history.  Learned a lot and certainly was helpful as we did our own exploring in the afternoon.  It was then time to say goodbye to the half of our group who were leaving for home.  One gets to know people very well when sharing this experience so was an emotional farewell.  Those of us remaining got together for a tapas dinner that evening. Will never have too many of these.

Yesterday we went on a bus trip toFinesterre which is regarded by the Spaniards as the end of the world. This is where for many pilgrims they consider to be the finish of their pilgrimage. In years gone by pilgrims would end their journey by burning all their smelly clothes they had worn.  This tradition is still carried out by a few and we did see some stoking small fires.  We then went to Muxia which is on the rugged coast referred to as the death coast due to the number of boats that have met their demise here over the years.  A magical place where if one use a lot of imagination it is said that you can see the remains of the stone boat that brought the remains of St James back to Spain. The beautiful old church on the point has many boat models hanging in it as mariners hang replicas of their boats here in hopes they will be protected on the seas.  The highlight of the day for me was that Eric was waiting when we returned to Santiago. We only had a short time together before I was off to France and he to Finesterre(on foot) but we were able to get together with some of his pilgrim friends and some of mine. Was really special for each of us to get to meet the people that each of us had gotten close to during this journey

I am now sitting in the Barcelona train station waiting for my train to Montpellier to meet up with Terry and Maggie.  Looking forward to being in France for e next week where I am sure I will sample some of their excellent food and wine as we explore the area.

Marilyn is in to the festivities

Could just be the name but we all had fun

Finesterre, the end of the world

Wonderful mist at Muxia

Take notice of the boat models

And the Camino comes to an end. What lies ahead?

Santiago

I really find it next to impossible to put today into words and much of it will remain in my heart instead of on paper.  Was awake several times last night both from excitement and due to the thunder and pelting rain.  As we were eating breakfast and waiting to be driven to our starting point the rain continued but as we stepped off the bus for our trek into Santiago the rain stopped and the last part of our journey was as dry as our past several days.  The actual walk into the city is definitely one of the least peaceful of the Camino but as we neared our destination spirits and emotions were high. Standing in front of the Cathedral was almost surreal.  Rain would have hidden some of the tears but I was not alone.  After celebration and photos we went to the Pilgrim Office where we each received our official certificate of completion Compostela.  We then proceeded to the Cathedral for the Pilgrims mass.  The Cathedral itself is stunning. We viewed the casket which contains the relics of St James and then sat for the mass.  The nun who sang and led the whole group sang like an angel. It was mentioned where all the pilgrims had started by city and what countries we were all from. Was very moving when we heard pilgrims starting in Ronceesvalles were from Canada. At the end of the mass we were privileged to witness the swinging of the Botafumeiro, a giant incense burner swung by six tiraboleiros.  In years past this was used to fumigate the sweaty and often disease ridden pilgrims.  Now a days because of e manpower necessary it is not done at all masses so we were blessed to have experienced this incredible sight. After an afternoon of exploring around the old part of the city tonight will be our final group dinner. Will be sad to bid farewell to this wonderful group of Camino friends.

In front of the Cathedral 

I actually did it. As some would stay my short stubbies served me well and I feel a great sense of accomplishment.

Tomb of St James

The main alter in the Cathedral 

Preparing the incense burner

Swinging overhead. Pictures cannot capture this experience.

 

Salceda to Monte Gozo

Today was an amazing day. We started out with sunny skies and they stayed with us the whole way. This was our last day of long walking before we reach Santiago tomorrow morning. We had 23kms to go and I was itching to get started. Pearl and I walked the path together where we spent time both in conversation and silent contemplation. I felt like I was walking on air and could not believe how fast the kms went. As we arrived at our destination a fair while before any others it was a special time to share what the walk has been for us. Apart from one section where the Way took us along a road for longer than what we prefer the trail was once again beautiful. The hills are certainly much easier than they were two weeks ago.  In Monte Gozo we went up on a hill to see two wonderful statues of pilgrims pointing to the cathedral in Santiago. Amazing and very exciting to realize that we will be there tomorrow at noon for the pilgrim's mass. This journey may be coming to a close but I know I will carry it with me forever.

Once again we are staying at an old country mansion Pazo Xan Xordo.  It has beautiful surroundings with its own private family chapel which the owner so graciously opened for a few of us to view.  Looking forward to a very exciting day tomorrow.

The scallop shell is found all along the trail as are these water fountains for pilgrims. Amazing to think how long the water has been flowing.

We met this Spanish fellow along the way who was doing as they did in years past.  He had walked from his home in Bilboa and was returning the same way.

Tried a few black and white today of the beautiful Way.

Pearl and I at the finish of the last ling stage. We feel great!

Guides and I at today's finish.

Pointing the way to the cathedral. I know I will have no problem finding it.

Private family chapel on the property where we are spending the night.

My group. Everyone is finished for today. This is the first time that Jose has had a group that everyone has finished the walk so special for him as well. Sorry about the finger, it is not mine.

Boente to Salceda

Sun Gods shone down us once again. It poured all night and through breakfast but as we headed to our starting point which was where we finished yesterday so that we walk every step of the last 100 kms the sun started to peek through and stayed with us all day. Once again we meandered through forests with some significant steady uphills, through farms and several small villages. Many of the buildings in the villages are quite derelict which somehow adds to the charm. Barns that would be considered falling down by us often have open doors revealing late model high end cars. Quite the contrast. The trail was much quieter today as we started from a point that most pilgrims do not stay at as the accommodation is not abundant. Was wonderful to have the peace to think as I walked along.

Tomorrow is our last long day of walking with 23 kms. We are all feeling the goal getting near and emotions are running high. I am so blessed to be sharing this journey with such a special group of people. I know I will carry this with me forever.

Sharing a roaring fire in the Casa in which we are staying which I learned last night is 500 years old. How lucky to get this experience

Ancient fountains along the way

Huge groves of eucalyptus trees. What a wonderful smell in the air after the previous nights rain

Shared the trail today with all sorts. The horns were a little disconcerting

Could not ask for better service than we get from our guide Jose and our driver Carlos. We will all miss them.

Palas de Rei to Boente

Another 21 kms completed. Only 47 kms left to Santiago. The walk along the path today was outstanding. We walked through a lot of forest paths and as the weather once again was lovely the shade was a welcome reprieve from the sun.  Today took us to Melide which is known for its octopus. We stopped for a wonderful dish of fresh spicy octopus with thick homemade bread to dip in the drippings. The hard part was getting up and walking the last six kms of the day.  Three of us arrived together in Boente where we were greeted warmly by the parish priest of Igrexa Santiago. He welcomed us into the church asking in Spanish our names and where we were from. He then did a personal blessing for us which was so touching hat there was not a dry eye amongst us. What a very special Camino moment.

We then drove to our home for the next two nights. We are staying in the most charming old home surrounded by lovely gardens. There is a very old church next door that made for a very peaceful visit.  Rock walls in the bathroom certainly make one realize how old it is.  Apparently the Spanish government pays for home owners to restore their homes with the agreement that the owners will then have rooms available to travellers for the next fifteen years and then the house is all theirs with no debt to repay. Hard work though as the home owners also supply meals.

Love the old churches. Each one is unique and has its own beauty

Wonderful old bridges along the way

Ancient stones to take one over the creek

The octopus was excellent!

Loved this sign. You do have to feel for the octopus.

Another leg done.  Guides are fantastic.

Barbadelo to Palas de Rei

The last two days of walking have been incredible. To start with the weather Gods have been watching out for us and we have stayed dry even though it apparently rains in Galacia 330 days of the year.  We have had periods of wind which is actually welcome as one works up a bit of heat walking. Bo days it has rained once we finish so timing has been perfect. The trail over e last coup,e of days has been delightful. Does not seem to be such a thing as flat here but the ever changing trail and scenery never ceases to keep a smile on my face. We have walked through farms, small ancient towns, forests, alongside wonderful stone walls and beside some meandering country roads.  Underfoot changes frequently making it necessary to watch ones footing at times.  Today was our longest walk at 24.7kms and I was delighted to feel good at the end of this stage. We have now walked ten days straight and look forward to each morning. Of course at the end of the walk each day we look forward to drinks of choice and some wonderful Spanish food.it is always fun to stop and get Camino stamps along the way as each bar, church hotel etc has their own design.

Yesterday after our walk some of us went to tour the monastery in Samos. As I mentioned previously it is the oldest active monastery in the Western World. The cloisters were stunning as were the paintings all along the walls many depicting heaven and hell quite graphically.  The church was majestic and as there was a wedding about to take place it was a very special visit.  As there are a lot fewer monks than in the past they now rent out rooms to pilgrims and one floor is reserved as a retirement home but only allows men.  Today we visited the Vilar de Domas whos origins go back to the 10th century.  It is absolutely amazing to see the treasures within that date back so many generations

Last night we stayed in a 350 year manor and tonight we are at a hotel spa in the countryside where our rooms are in yert like buildings. As the spa was calling I went for a massage and I must say it was one of the best I have ever had. I am so relaxed and looking forward to another fabulous meal.

Seating areas along the trail

Variations of the trail

Cloisters within the monastery

Careful footing on the downward trail

And then the trail changes once again

Dates back to the 12th century

Our hotel rooms outside Palas de Rei

Foncebadon to Molinaseca

Today was as absolutely incredible day on the Way for me. We started off in Foncebaden and in very windy conditions made our way to La Cruz de Ferro which is an iron cross which stands 1504 meters above sea level. Pilgrims for many years have paused here along the trail to add a stone or token to the ever growing pile. My piece of Spurling Rock from Parksville with my words on it will rest there for eternity. Very emotional time with lots of tears and hugs. The trail today was the toughest so far physically. There were some uphills but we made a large elevation drop over the next seventeen kms.  Parts of the trail were very rocky and slippery.  The weather was also a big change with a mixture of brisk winds at times and everything from mist to heavy rain. The scenery was spectacular. So much greener and hillier than what we have seen in the last couple of days. Crossing a beautiful old bridge we finished in Molinaseca.  We were all soaked to the skin but spirits were high. For me today was really special. It was emotional at the cross and the trail was difficult but gave me such a feeling of accomplishment to rise to the challenge.

On the way to our night stop we stopped at O'Cebreiro to visit a 9th century church which is the oldest one on the Way and the location where a miracle is said to have happened where a pilgrim saw bread and wine turned into the blood and body of Christ.   We also stopped at at a large monastery in Samos which is one of the oldest and largest in the western world. Now pilgrims can stay there on their way to Santiago. We are staying tonight in an ancient old home in Samos. Tomorrow is the start of the final 100 kms to Santiago. With 160 under my belt I am so pumped

Placing my rock at the base of the cross

Long rocky trail

Slippery downhill

Bridge leading into Molinaseca 

9th century baptismal bowl

Charming room in old home we are staying in