Wednesday, 15 January 2020

Danger Island & Paulet Island

January 12th was an incredible day full of new experiences.  We started our day at Danger Island which is the most eastern point of the Antarctica Peninsula and an area that other ships do not go and this one only if the conditions are ideal and luckily for us they were.  It is the home of the largest known Adele penguin colony with over one million penguins and as we approached the smell and sound made it evident that this was not an exaggeration.  Surrounded by massive icebergs this is not an island where landings are possible but we were in for an incredible zodiac cruise.  All along the shoreline hundreds of penguins porpoises around the boat while many of them tried to cool off on the chunks of ice while posing for pictures.  The highlight was the viewing of the leopard seal just off shore waiting to catch his next meal and seeing him actually do so. They are very large and quite vicious creatures compared to the cute little seals we have at home.  Leaving Danger Island everyone was on deck as we were surrounded by massive tabletop icebergs and it was quite the navigation feat to guide the ship safely through. I am sure it was way more exciting for the passengers than it was for the crew but Celine Dion did not get to sing so all was well.
The afternoon was another Hugh teat as we went to Paulet Island which is another huge penguin colony but this time we went ashore.  Hikes were offered but were cut short as the way was blocked by penguins and the guides are extremely respectful of the wildlife.  Not at all disappointing as we got to spend a few hours walking about and observing the penguins and their chicks.  Frequently you just had to stand still because a penguin would decide they wanted to cross your path.  Not exactly a hardship.  Back on the ship at seven for the Captains cocktail party , dinner a beautiful sunset and more spectacular scenery as we move on finished off another unbelievable day.


Daily chart

Just a first glimpse of the massive penguin colony of over one million Adele penguins on Danger Island

Zodiacs heading out to explore

The noise from the colony was quite something 

This group of penguins seemed to be hesitant about entering the water as they wondered about what dangers might be lurking and they were wise to be cautious as leopard seals were definitely cruising just off shore looking for their next meal

The wild action in the water is a leopard seal has caught a penguin and flings it around to literally skin it so it can then eat it. Rather gruesome to watch but it is part of the circle of life

A pleased leapard seal after his meal

Dozens of penguins proposing through the water.  Safety in numbers

The pinky highway is quite evident from the colony at the top of the rocks down to the water which the parents travel several times a day to gather food for their chicks

Chilling out on a chunk of ice

A stories high table top iceberg behind part of the penguin colony

The icebergs are simply spectacular 

This is the top of a tabletop iceberg that has rolled over

The icebergs certainly make navigating interesting as they are moving blockages that make passages impossible and they are not on charts

At times it seemed we could almost reach out and touch the icebergs as there were so many that they were so close to the ship

Arriving at Paulet Island 

Amazing to walk amongst a sea of penguins 

A parent feeding their chick

Every parent knows exactly which chick is theirs and will have nothing to do with any of the others


It is very common for a penguin to have two chicks in a season

Dressed for the weather

Babies are cute but a do believe that the adults are better looking

They are very social beings and often stick together 

Seem to be playing follow the leader

Parent and chick. The chick will look like the parent within weeks

That is a happy smile

Getting ready to go for a swim 

Gorgeous sunset 




Monday, 13 January 2020

Gourdin Island & Brown Bluff

January 11th was Anderson exciting day in Antarctica. We started out at Gourdin Island where we did some zodiac touring as this is not an island where it is possible to land. There were thousands of penguins on shore in a huge colony and it was very entertaining to watch them dive into the ocean where they the porpoise swim in groups and dive down when they find krill to feed their chicks.  One of the parents stays with the young chicks and they take turns hunting for food which they regurgitate to the young.  They swim in groups to try and avoid prey such as leopard seals which may be waiting to feed on them.  The island was surrounded by picturesque icebergs and snow covered land masses so one almost got dizzy trying to look in all directions. There is always a naturalist on board and they are a wealth of information so we are learning so much as well. After lunch we headed off to Brown Bluff for what was hoped to be a landing and hike but nature had other plans and the shoreline was totally iced in which made landing impossible so we did some zodiac cruising amongst the icebergs.  Many of the penguins from the colony were on the icebergs trying to cool themselves down which made for great photo opportunities.  Penguins breed on the rocky exposed land and their colonies appear quite reddy pink from a distance due to the large amount of accumulated penguin poop.  In the evening we shared a celebration dinner with Amy and Andy for their 49th anniversary.


Chart showing where we have been today 

Stunning ice fields. Blue and white are the dominant colours here

Part of the penguin colony high on the hill. Penguins come to land for two months in the summer to breed and they spend the next ten months out on the ocean

Penguins waiting to go for a swim. It is almost like they are say no you go first. No one wants to be the meal

These are not pink penguins. They are covered with poop from the nest and really need a bath

Penguins porpoising through the water often in really large groups

A parent and chicks. Very common for each penguin to have two chicks. They will not look after another’s chick so if something happens to the parent the chick is out of luck

These sheathbills are the only birds in Antarctica without webbed feet and are strictly shore birds.  They are scavengers eating penguin eggs and small chicks as well as feces

One can see the shear size of the colony and this is just part of it. They are also quite vocal creatures

The landscape is incredible 

These penguins are following the penguin highway which is a very common characteristic of penguins and from the zodiacs you can see the most frequented routes

It may be sunny but it is Antarctica and it is cold. Our driver Michael Jackson is from Victoia.

Scout boat going out to see if there is any possibility of a landing 

The penguins on this sheet of ice look like they have their own resort complete with a pool

Pure beauty

Wave action carves caves and channels in the icebergs

Cooling off on a hot day for a Penguin

Arch in the iceberg framed our ship nicely

They are so photogenic 

Much cleaner when they have been in swimming

Entertaining to watch them swim full speed towards the iceberg and then make a flying leap onto it

This shot gives a good idea of the shade of poop I mentioned 

Boating amongst the ice

Icebergs in all shapes and sizes