Sevilla

Well we are at our last destination of the tour.  Sevilla is a beautiful city many of the streets and squares are lined with loaded bitter orange trees. They serve dual purpose as shade and beauty and the fruit is exported mostly to Britian for marmalade.  We started our time here at the church of the Macarena where we had a most informative guide who taught us all about how the fraternities in his city work.  One joins the fraternity of their local parish generally and they all celebrate in April which is Holy Week.  Members contribute financially to the fraternity and the larger ones such as the one at Macarena are very weathly. The people of Sevilla go to their churches and worship statutes, primarily ones of Mary as they feel as a mother she is much more understanding of their issues.  Money collected goes to keep the statutes well dressed and even well jeweled. The floats that they use during Holy Week also come from this money. These floats are nothing like what most of us think of when we go to parades and it is hard to even begin to imagine what they are worth. They are in display in the church museum and are used every year so was fascinating to see them up close.  

In the afternoon we visited the Aalcazar which was originally a 10th century palace built for the Moorish but was taken over by the Christians and is still the Royal palace but most is open to the public.  Like the Alhambra much of it is done in Muslim style with exquisite plaster designs everywhere. The difference is that here the colors in the plaster have been well preserved giving it a beauty of its own.  Some of the rooms in the palace are done in tile motifs which are fascinating. The Alcazar also has extensive gardens for all to enjoy.

In the evening we went to a small flamenco show which was quite enjoyable.  The dancers have amazing foot and hand motion which is amazing to watch.  Our last big tour was of the Santa Maria de la Sede which due to its high ceilings is the biggest volume cathedral in the world.  A mosque previously stood on the site which was torn down in 1401 and the cathedral built over the next 120 years.  The church itself is beautiful with one of the highlights being the tomb of Christopher Columbus right in front of the main entrance.  The art work and relics are amazing and they even claim to have one of the thorns from the crown of thorns worn at the crucifixion housed in a beautiful silver receptacle.  One can climb the bell tower and the views were the reward for the effort. Eric and I spent a fair bit of extra time wandering around and admiring all that this cathedral has to offer.  After a tapas lunch outside in the wonderful sunshine and a stroll through part of town it was time to return to the hotel to get ready for our farewell dinner with the group followed by horse carriage rides around town.

This oddysey has been amazing. I have loved every minute of my time on the Camino, in France and exploring this wonderful country of Spain but I am ready and excited to be going home.  I have missed our family and friends and cannot wait to see our precious grandchildren.  Now Eric and I will have the fun of deciding on and planning our next adventure.

The float to hold the Virgin Mary

The Virgins crown. All gems and gold are the real thing!

Beautifully decorated and coloured walls and ceilings in the Alcazar

Stunning tile work

Cathedral bell tower. Amazing views from the top

Part of the church organ

More of my favorite scallop shells. They are every where in Spain and have been for centuries 

Christopher Columbus's tomb with his remains being carried on the shoulders of four representing the four areas of Spain

Our chariot awaits!

Sahara to Arcos de la Frontera

Leaving Rhonda behind we set off to explore more of the Andalucian countryside. We first stopped off at a charming little hilltop village Zahara. It is no wonder that the citizens in this part of the world have a generous lifespan as there was hardly a flat spot to be found and most of the streets were steep and narrow. Even the elderly locals were happily walking up and down them which would help counter the wine and great food.  On the very top of the hill was an old tower with a spectacular  Jew in all directions.  Was beautiful to view the small white villages dotting the hills and the beautiful blue lake below. Enjoyed this little town as there were few tourists and the locals were all out going about their business.  On our way out of town we visited a local olive factory where they still cold press their olives producing wonderful virgin olive oil with great pride.  Was really interesting and the samples were very tasty. Passing through Grazalema National Park we arrived at the most picturesque town of Arcos de la Frontera.  Due to the steep and narrow streets we were dropped at the bottom of the old town and hiked up to the top of the hill where our accommodation was in an old convent turned hotel. The people of Arcos are very thankful to Rick Steves as he helped put their town on the tourist map thus infusing their poor economy.  The convent went as far as to name their best room after him and we were lucky enough to get that room.  Apart from the lovely room the large tiled balcony looking over the valley and right beside one of the churches was a real bonus.

The next day we had a couple of unique adventures.  We first went to visit the Andalucian horse breeding farm and training center.  The horses were beautiful and the guide gave us a very comprehensive tour of the whole facility. We visited the stallion stalls,the corrals where the mares are kept, this years offspring as well as the training center.  The farm is state owned and income is derived from selling horses as well as sperm. Was. Rey interesting to see the clinic area where this is collected and the mares are impregnated.  This facility even does embryo transfers so that they can produce more offspring from their best mares.  We even got to go into the operating room which certainly differs from any I have worked in as the patients are much larger.  After this most enlightening tou we were off to the Beam Sherry Bodega. This is a large facility in Jerez which produces both sherry and brandy. Most interesting to learn about the process but the best part was that this is where Harvey's Briatol Cream is made which was a great favorite of Grannies.  Eric and I toasted her with one of our samples.

It was then time to explore Arcos on our own. We visited the two largest and oldest churches which were both beautiful in their own individual ways but for us the highlight was Belen. This was the most amazing display that has been put together over three years by over two dozen of the local artists.  It completely fills the space of a small store and progressively tells the story of the nativity. Everything is handmade and it is stunning. As you try and take it all in the whole display turns from day to night giving one even more to look at. They have built it so you feel that you are in a cave and we did not want to leave. What made it even more amazing was that it was free.  There was one of the artists there to answer questions and watch over the display and their pride in the finished product was quite evident.

Our last night in Arcos Eric and I chose a local restaurant which was built in an old cellar. We arrived around 730 which is very early in Spain. We sat and enjoyed a bottle of wine and outstanding tapas.  Until 830 we were the only ones there and then it was like a flood.  The place was packed within minutes with locals and then a flamenco guitar player and singer played. The guitar was fantastic but I must admit that I find flamenco singing a bit like chalk scraping across the board.  All and all a wonderful local experience.

Tower from below. Great climb

Sunset from our balcony

Beautiful gentle Andalucian horse

An OR table for a horse

This one is for Grannie

A very small part of this wonderful display

Loved the camels faces

Charming local restaurant in Arcos

Toledo to Rondo

Was sad to leave Toledo but not for long as we were presented with one wonderful place after another. On the drive to Granada we stopped at a small town where we were taken up the hill to tour an ancient grain windmill. The view was panoramic and was quite fascinating to go up inside the windmill and see how they actually worked. We also stopped at a lovely restaurant for lunch where two locals were separating the strings of saffron from the winter crocus stamens and then drying them for sale. Can certainly understand the price of saffron when one sees how labour intensive it is.

We travelled through the plains of La Mancha with literally millions of olive trees as far as one could see again.

We arrived in Granada later in the day and after settling in we went for a short orientation walkabout before going up to the Albaysin hill for a magnificent dinner overlooking the lit up Alhambra. What a perfect spot to dine.  Spent yesterday morning at the Alhambra.  This Moorish palace is one of the most visited sights in Europe and one does not need to wonder why.  The architecture is exquisite and the beauty was impossible to capture on film though that did not stop me from trying.  The plaster work on the walls is so detailed and has survived beautifully for hundreds of years.  Throughout the grounds both inside and out there are numerous water features adding to the beauty and serenity of this unbelievable palace.  The gardens are all carefully kept and in places the wonderful aroma of different herbs was delightful.  The stroll back to the old town was down a lovely shaded walkway to end the visit perfectly.  We spent the afternoon visiting the Royal Chapel where King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella are buried.  The art work in the museum there dated back to the 14th century and was once part of the largest art collection ever by a woman as it belonged to Queen Isabella.  All of the paintings are on wood and included two by Botticelli and other masters that those versed in art would recognize more than myself.  We then visited the cathedral which was massive. It is one of only two Renaissance churches in Spain but over the time it was built has both Gothic and Baroque features as well.  All of these styles together gave it a very different feeling than some of the other churches we have visited. The inside of the cathedral was painted with lime in the 18th century during a disease outbreak and the worshipers liked it so much that it has stayed this way.  The white walls and pillars make it much brighter than other cathedrals.

In the evening several of us ventured out to an authentic Morrocan restaurant which was delicious.  This morning we set off to Ronda. With a short stop along the way we were in Ronda by noon. Ronda is a hilltop Andalusian town with the typical white buildings of this area. Our first visit was to the bullring which was the first great Spanish bullring and dates back to 1735. It is now only used one week a year but was interesting to see the ring and walk through where the bulls are kept and released into the ring.  The museum provided some Insite into the sport if you call it that and was enough for me.  The most impressive sight in Ronda is the bridge built in the 17 th century which spans the gorge connecting the two parts of the city. The gorge is 200 feet wide and 360 feet deep so the bridge is most impressive though not enjoyed by those who do not like heights.  Eric and I had a wonderful tasting menu at a lovely restaurant looking over the valley.  We are spending the night in a charming country inn outside of town which oozes with character. The bar is on the oh our system which would certainly be rare at home.

Visit to the flour mills

Harvesting saffron from the crocus stamens

Inside the Alhambra

Stunning water features

Imagine lying in bed and gazing at this

Inside the cathedral

Ronda bullring

Ancient bridge connecting the two parts of town

Ronda sitting high above the gorge

Toledo

What a magnificent city.  This world heritage town dates back 2500 years with a rich history of Romans, Moorish, Jewish and Christian populations.  The old town itself is surrounded by walls and then the Tajo River which flows down to Portugal. Delightful old foot bridges crossover the river to the old town to add to the charm. The old town is very walkable with windy narrow streets meandering up and down the hill. Streets are rough cobblestone and it beats me how the locals navigate them in high heel shoes.

In the am we did a bit of a tour with the local guide visiting the site of El Grecos masterpiece ,The Burial of the Count of Orgaz painted in 1586 depicting the artists conception of the transition from heaven to earth.  We spent some time n the Jewish synagogue which had at one time been converted into a Catholic Church when the Christians forced the Jewish people to either convert or leave the country.  The favorite stop was the Toledo Cathedral .  It is the second largest in Spain and is absolutely awesome. The alter and choir were beautiful but the highlight for me was behind the alter where a large hole was cut in the ceiling to allow the light in for mass. The sculptures adorning this opening and the back of the alter are a mix of heaven and earth. A highlight is a large alabaster carving of the last supper which is larger than life.  One could spend days in here and not see it all

We wandered the streets enjoying a traditional meal of the area including partridge and venison.  Our exploring took us along the walls of the city and out onto an ancient bridge crossing the river. After a wine tasting in the cellar of our hotel several of us ventured out to enjoy sights of the city that were lit up. All and all an amazing day.

Cathedral

The last supper

Gateway into Toledo 

Ancient footbridge leading into town

Steeple at night 

Cathedral door model made completely of marzipan the local delicacy.

 

Madrid and Segovia

Our arrival in Madrid was not without fanfare. There was a very large demonstration in the square outside our hotel by students and teachers. The police were out in force and all seemed well controlled. However when we returned from dinner last night at about 10pm the students were once again out in full force as were the riot police. I can happily say it was my first time seeing police in full riot gear including shields etc and I do hope not one to repeat anytime soon.  Luckily by morning all was quiet.

Yesterday we did a walking tour of Madrid with a definite highlight being a. Isit to the convent of cloistered nuns.  We went in to but some cookies from the turntable but our visit coincided with the arrival of a male expected by the mother superior,perhaps a doctor or other professional, and was the first time either of our guides had ever actually seen one of the nuns in all their years of going there.  Visited a great market where one could get almost any delicacy ready to eat along with drink of choice. Tried to go back at two which is lunchtime here but was full to the rafters.  Carried on to the Prado Museum where we had the most fantastic guide who brought the paintings of the Spanish Masters alive. Never have I got so much out of an art museum.  Spent the afternoon exploring more of the city, including a beautiful park,pedestrian streets,and stopping for a snack and cafe con leche.  Last night a group of us went out for paella.  Over rated from my point of view but was a fun evening.

Today we spent the day in Segovia and it was all and far more than I expected.  First we toured the roman agueduct, built 2000 years ago to supply water to the castle. The big difference from the Pont de Gar and this is that in Segovia the agueduct runs right through town.  Absolutely amazing. The old town of Segovia is the type of town I love with ancient narrow streets meandering amongst buildings that have stood for generations.  Wound our way through town to the castle on the hill where the views were panoramic and the history palpable. Climbed up the tower on a narrow circular staircase to be rewarded with even better views. The crowning glory of the day was our lunch where we were treated to the specialty of the region which is roast suckling pig.  The restaurant has been here for several generations and happened to Eric's and my delight to be a Chaine member.  After several delicious courses we were presented with the main event which was whole suckling pigs. They were so tender that they were cut with a ceramic plate. The meat was tender if not a bit fatty and the skin was the perfect crackling.  Accompanied by a great local wine it was the perfect meal.  Tonight we are going to head out for some cava and tapas.  Such is the life.

Buying cookies from the cloistered nuns that are never seen by the outside world. Is it any wonder that their numbers are dwindling.

They really like impatience here and the effect is beautiful

Wonderful food choices in the market

Amazing structure to last 2000 years

Even moat and drawbridge are intact

The main event

Fellow Chaine member

Segovia Cathedral

Last days in Barcelona

Perfect weather continues allowing our exploration of this magnificent city. Yesterday after a little shopping for some essentials that we needed like a pair of shoes we walked down to the waterfront and explored the aquarium. Though we are very familiar with marine life was interesting to see the different species that were represented here. Especially fond of the different seahorse aquariums.  After another great lunch we met with our tour group. There are only 20 in the group which makes for a nice number. After introductions and a n overview of the tour we set off for a tapas dinner in a small local establishment, passing on the way ,The 4 Cats, which was a favorite hangout of Picassos.  Dinner was an amazing assortment of tapas including foie gras and pulpo so I was very happy. I look forward to meals if this is any indication of quality.

This morning we had a walking tour of Gothic Barcelona by a local guide which was so interesting and informative. She had an in depth knowledge of history and a very easy way of imparting it.  The hours flew by.  We ended at the Sagrada Famillia which can look somewhat gaudy at first glance but with her detailed information regarding the meaning and building of this unique structure I fell in love with it.  I found it especially poignant that Gaudi designed the outside of this church to bring the bible to all the people, even those illiterate and those who did not enter into the church. It is predicted that the church will be finished in 2026 and I hope to see it at this time.  Eric and I spent the rest of the afternoon exploring some of the maze of side streets.  Tomorrow we are off to Madrid and more adventure.

Loved these cute little horses.

Love to see him snorkeling

These dragon fish look almost prehistoric

Barcelona Cathedral 

Impossible to capture the size of this immense church

First facade of the Famillia to be completed depicting the birth of Christ

One could stand and gaze upon this facade for hours and keep finding new details

Light and motion within is astounding

Unlike other churches visited Gaudi designed all the windows to be bright and bring in the colors of nature making for an ever changing interior as the outside light changes

Couloirs reflecting from the windows onto the white stone

Fun pieces of jewelry at a unique (and expensive) store in a little alley

Unique food items not on my shopping list!