Marilyn's Odyssey: Sahara to Arcos de la Frontera

Leaving Rhonda behind we set off to explore more of the Andalucian countryside. We first stopped off at a charming little hilltop village Zahara. It is no wonder that the citizens in this part of the world have a generous lifespan as there was hardly a flat spot to be found and most of the streets were steep and narrow. Even the elderly locals were happily walking up and down them which would help counter the wine and great food. On the very top of the hill was an old tower with a spectacular Jew in all directions. Was beautiful to view the small white villages dotting the hills and the beautiful blue lake below. Enjoyed this little town as there were few tourists and the locals were all out going about their business. On our way out of town we visited a local olive factory where they still cold press their olives producing wonderful virgin olive oil with great pride. Was really interesting and the samples were very tasty. Passing through Grazalema National Park we arrived at the most picturesque town of Arcos de la Frontera. Due to the steep and narrow streets we were dropped at the bottom of the old town and hiked up to the top of the hill where our accommodation was in an old convent turned hotel. The people of Arcos are very thankful to Rick Steves as he helped put their town on the tourist map thus infusing their poor economy. The convent went as far as to name their best room after him and we were lucky enough to get that room. Apart from the lovely room the large tiled balcony looking over the valley and right beside one of the churches was a real bonus.

The next day we had a couple of unique adventures. We first went to visit the Andalucian horse breeding farm and training center. The horses were beautiful and the guide gave us a very comprehensive tour of the whole facility. We visited the stallion stalls,the corrals where the mares are kept, this years offspring as well as the training center. The farm is state owned and income is derived from selling horses as well as sperm. Was. Rey interesting to see the clinic area where this is collected and the mares are impregnated. This facility even does embryo transfers so that they can produce more offspring from their best mares. We even got to go into the operating room which certainly differs from any I have worked in as the patients are much larger. After this most enlightening tou we were off to the Beam Sherry Bodega. This is a large facility in Jerez which produces both sherry and brandy. Most interesting to learn about the process but the best part was that this is where Harvey's Briatol Cream is made which was a great favorite of Grannies. Eric and I toasted her with one of our samples.

It was then time to explore Arcos on our own. We visited the two largest and oldest churches which were both beautiful in their own individual ways but for us the highlight was Belen. This was the most amazing display that has been put together over three years by over two dozen of the local artists. It completely fills the space of a small store and progressively tells the story of the nativity. Everything is handmade and it is stunning. As you try and take it all in the whole display turns from day to night giving one even more to look at. They have built it so you feel that you are in a cave and we did not want to leave. What made it even more amazing was that it was free. There was one of the artists there to answer questions and watch over the display and their pride in the finished product was quite evident.

Our last night in Arcos Eric and I chose a local restaurant which was built in an old cellar. We arrived around 730 which is very early in Spain. We sat and enjoyed a bottle of wine and outstanding tapas. Until 830 we were the only ones there and then it was like a flood. The place was packed within minutes with locals and then a flamenco guitar player and singer played. The guitar was fantastic but I must admit that I find flamenco singing a bit like chalk scraping across the board. All and all a wonderful local experience.