Palas de Rei to Boente

Another 21 kms completed. Only 47 kms left to Santiago. The walk along the path today was outstanding. We walked through a lot of forest paths and as the weather once again was lovely the shade was a welcome reprieve from the sun.  Today took us to Melide which is known for its octopus. We stopped for a wonderful dish of fresh spicy octopus with thick homemade bread to dip in the drippings. The hard part was getting up and walking the last six kms of the day.  Three of us arrived together in Boente where we were greeted warmly by the parish priest of Igrexa Santiago. He welcomed us into the church asking in Spanish our names and where we were from. He then did a personal blessing for us which was so touching hat there was not a dry eye amongst us. What a very special Camino moment.

We then drove to our home for the next two nights. We are staying in the most charming old home surrounded by lovely gardens. There is a very old church next door that made for a very peaceful visit.  Rock walls in the bathroom certainly make one realize how old it is.  Apparently the Spanish government pays for home owners to restore their homes with the agreement that the owners will then have rooms available to travellers for the next fifteen years and then the house is all theirs with no debt to repay. Hard work though as the home owners also supply meals.

Love the old churches. Each one is unique and has its own beauty

Wonderful old bridges along the way

Ancient stones to take one over the creek

The octopus was excellent!

Loved this sign. You do have to feel for the octopus.

Another leg done.  Guides are fantastic.

Barbadelo to Palas de Rei

The last two days of walking have been incredible. To start with the weather Gods have been watching out for us and we have stayed dry even though it apparently rains in Galacia 330 days of the year.  We have had periods of wind which is actually welcome as one works up a bit of heat walking. Bo days it has rained once we finish so timing has been perfect. The trail over e last coup,e of days has been delightful. Does not seem to be such a thing as flat here but the ever changing trail and scenery never ceases to keep a smile on my face. We have walked through farms, small ancient towns, forests, alongside wonderful stone walls and beside some meandering country roads.  Underfoot changes frequently making it necessary to watch ones footing at times.  Today was our longest walk at 24.7kms and I was delighted to feel good at the end of this stage. We have now walked ten days straight and look forward to each morning. Of course at the end of the walk each day we look forward to drinks of choice and some wonderful Spanish food.it is always fun to stop and get Camino stamps along the way as each bar, church hotel etc has their own design.

Yesterday after our walk some of us went to tour the monastery in Samos. As I mentioned previously it is the oldest active monastery in the Western World. The cloisters were stunning as were the paintings all along the walls many depicting heaven and hell quite graphically.  The church was majestic and as there was a wedding about to take place it was a very special visit.  As there are a lot fewer monks than in the past they now rent out rooms to pilgrims and one floor is reserved as a retirement home but only allows men.  Today we visited the Vilar de Domas whos origins go back to the 10th century.  It is absolutely amazing to see the treasures within that date back so many generations

Last night we stayed in a 350 year manor and tonight we are at a hotel spa in the countryside where our rooms are in yert like buildings. As the spa was calling I went for a massage and I must say it was one of the best I have ever had. I am so relaxed and looking forward to another fabulous meal.

Seating areas along the trail

Variations of the trail

Cloisters within the monastery

Careful footing on the downward trail

And then the trail changes once again

Dates back to the 12th century

Our hotel rooms outside Palas de Rei

Foncebadon to Molinaseca

Today was as absolutely incredible day on the Way for me. We started off in Foncebaden and in very windy conditions made our way to La Cruz de Ferro which is an iron cross which stands 1504 meters above sea level. Pilgrims for many years have paused here along the trail to add a stone or token to the ever growing pile. My piece of Spurling Rock from Parksville with my words on it will rest there for eternity. Very emotional time with lots of tears and hugs. The trail today was the toughest so far physically. There were some uphills but we made a large elevation drop over the next seventeen kms.  Parts of the trail were very rocky and slippery.  The weather was also a big change with a mixture of brisk winds at times and everything from mist to heavy rain. The scenery was spectacular. So much greener and hillier than what we have seen in the last couple of days. Crossing a beautiful old bridge we finished in Molinaseca.  We were all soaked to the skin but spirits were high. For me today was really special. It was emotional at the cross and the trail was difficult but gave me such a feeling of accomplishment to rise to the challenge.

On the way to our night stop we stopped at O'Cebreiro to visit a 9th century church which is the oldest one on the Way and the location where a miracle is said to have happened where a pilgrim saw bread and wine turned into the blood and body of Christ.   We also stopped at at a large monastery in Samos which is one of the oldest and largest in the western world. Now pilgrims can stay there on their way to Santiago. We are staying tonight in an ancient old home in Samos. Tomorrow is the start of the final 100 kms to Santiago. With 160 under my belt I am so pumped

Placing my rock at the base of the cross

Long rocky trail

Slippery downhill

Bridge leading into Molinaseca 

9th century baptismal bowl

Charming room in old home we are staying in

La Virginia del Camino to Astorga

Yesterday saw us walking from La Virgen del Camino to Villadangos del Paramo. The trail was not to picturesque along this route but the weather was once again spectacular and spirits are high. I keep pinching myself to prove that I am really doing this. With over one hundred kms walked over six days I am feeling great. After a short walk which just flew by as I chatted with fellow pilgrims we were back in Leon which left us time to explore before a guided tour. Pearl and I took the time to explore some of the ancient streets and walked outside the ancient city walls. Was quite a sight to see an ambulance pulled up to an arch in the wall to take a patient into the hospital which is still housed in an ancient building.  Our guided tour took us through the beautiful cathedral which was built in the 13th century and has 125 beautiful stained glass windows. We were blessed with a sunny day so the windows were stunning. To top it off there is an organ festival going on and the organ was being played some while we were inside. It was something that sent shivers down my spine. What lucky timing. Last night we had a group dinner in an old mansion.  Food was delicious and there was a lot of stories and laughter.  

Today we started out in lovely sunshine from Hospital del Orbigo. The beautiful Romanesque bridge out of town is one of the longest and best preserved along the Way dating back to the 13th century and was the location of a famous jousting contest in 1434. The path took us up and down hills through miles of farmland boasting corn and potatoes amongst others. As I walked by an open barn door the farmer came out with plums for us to eat. At another lookout over the city of Asorga a Spanish fellow sat with his guitar singing a song about the Camino. Stopped for a short conversation and he only spoke Spanish. Another of so many special memories. The road into Astorga was steep and hot but we were rewarded by walking directly into our hotel were boots were quickly shed and it was off to the square for a much anticipated clara which is a mixture of beer and lime soda. Very refreshing. I also had a plate of one of the best foie gras I have ever had. When I spoke with Eric soon after I found out that he had sat at the same restaurant the day before and enjoyed the same dish. We really do think alike

Leon cathedral at night

Inside the cathedral

Beautiful stained glass

Stork nests on the bell tower

Bridge out of Hospital del Orbigo

On the trail

Friends make the time fly by

Many pilgrim statues along the Way

Some of them are made in fun

Foie gras. What away to treat myself after the walk and yes I did share with some of my pilgrim friends

San Juan de Ortega to Ccastrojeriz

We left San Juan under beautiful sunny skies and walked through some delightful small villages. We did a lot of climbing today,some of it over quite rough terrain but the changing country side and views were well worth it. The days seem to fly by and the 20 kms or so do not seem to be that long. One meets and talks to people from all over the world. Even had a very basic conversation with a French fellow who spoke no English. Amazing how many countries are represented on the trail and it is very rare to pass or be passed without some kind of greeting. Ended the day in Burgos. Where we had a subzero lunch in the main plaza. I started with four gras and finished with Galician octopus which was devine. The cathedral was spectacular. I am still in awe over how these magnificent structures were built over 700 years ago. The workmanship is unbelievable.

This morning saw us start out from Hornillos to Castrojeriz. Was a long slow climb up then decent into the quaint little town of Hontana before meandering through grain fields to reach Castrojeriz. Several bikers passed along the way as well as a couple on horseback. Weather was once again beautiful but after walking in 30 degrees the beer at the end was more than welcome.  After touring the twelfth century cathedral in Castrojeriz we travelled to Leon for the night. This is a delightful city with winding pedestrian streets opening onto squares and another cathedral that is a sight to behold. The streets are lined with tables from one restaurant after another and we sat and ate a wonderful meal with a direct view of the illuminated cathedral. Spectacular. Strange to think that Eric was here last night but will still be some time before we are together.  We will certainly have so much to share .

I have always wanted to be taller

All sorts of shells and arrows mark the way

Galician octopus and it was delicious!

Altar in cathedral in Bergos. Overwhelming 

On the trail and happy every step

And on it goes

Leon cathedral. I will never tire of these

Visor Menor to San Juan de Ortega

The last two days have both dawned with absolutely stunning weather. Yesterday we started our 18 km walk with a steady climb to El alto del Perdon with stunning views back to Pamplona. Very windy at the top which was a welcome reprieve from the heat. After a steep and rocky decline for which I more than once voiced a love for my hiking poles we arrived in Muruzabal. We then detoured off the trail to visit the Church of Santa Maria de Eunate a stunning Romanesque church built in the twelfth century. Myself and Pearl, one of my fellow pilgrims were the first to arrive in time to watch, from outside the open doors a beautiful Spanish wedding.  After the wedding had departed the church we went inside and spent some time sitting and taking in the simplistic beauty.  Unfortunately for the rest of our group by the time they arrived the church was closed for siesta. As Eric had taken this four km detour to also find the church closed I felt truly lucky to have the opportunity to spend some time within.

Last night was spent in Logrono which is in La Rioja. Our visit coincided with the annual wine festival and the city was wild with people.  There were bands and parades and dancing in the streets which went well into the night. Several of us did a bar crawl, sampling pinchos and wine along the way. Great time

This morning we started our walk visiting an old monastery which was unfortunately closed but had beautiful grounds and buildings. The bell tower against the clear blue sky was a sight to behold. We then did a 22 km walk to Santo Domingo. The walk started through grape vines as far as you could see absolutely heavy with grapes. The anticipation of the finished product made the steps lighter. A steady incline to the high Rioja saw the vines change to huge piles of baled hay. The views were incredible all day and time flew. Met and talked with several pilgrims through the day which makes this journey even more special.  Passed an hour or so with a young Danish fellow discussing amongst other things what makes one a pilgrim. Finished the walk today in Santo Domingo where the highlight was a visit to the cathedral dating from 1232. One thing that has struck me many times in the last few days is how many have walked this exact same path over hundreds of years. Gives me a very special feeling and from a very personal view to know that Eric walked the very same path as I am on just a couple of weeks ago.

Spending the night in San Juan de Orteego at a delightful small hotel which our group of 16 fills. Attended the pilgrim mass where Clara, one of our group from Venezuela read the pilgrims blessing.

Have decided that every day on the Camino is a bad hair day though some of my group call it Camino sexy which sounds far better.

The windy top of the Alto de Perdon

Church of Santa Maria de Eunate

The inside of above church

Dancing in the streets of Logrono

Vineyards in the background. Getting closer to Santiago

Heavy vines just waiting to be made into good wine

Having fun by one of the many pilgrim statues along the way

Alter in the Cathedral in Santo Domingo 

On the Camino!

Met up with my fellow group of travellers yesterday afternoon and could not have hand picked a better bunch. Everyone is enthused, friendly and ready to hit the trail. The Marly Tour group are so warm and welcoming and very well organized. They have thought of everything right down to special foot cream. We went by  Mercedes tour bus to Roncesvalles where we had some time to explore around this small but very significant village on the Camino. In the evening we attended a pilgrim mass at the old church. Even though most of it was not understandable due to language constraints it was very moving. At the end they called up all pilgrims(everyone at the service) for a special blessing and a beautiful song sung by the four priests. There was more than one teardrop in the crowd.

This morning was the real start of this great adventure. We awoke to pouring rain which did not dampen any spirits. For those who know me well you know that I do not like being out in the rain so my eagerness to start walking in the wet was a bit of a miracle in itself.  We covered eighteen kms today from Roncesvalles to Alto de Erro. The trail varied from winding trails through the woods, rocky pathes, roads through very small towns and some muddy areas due to the rain. There were a lot of ups and downs just to make it interesting. With the misty shrouded Pyrennes in view we were often serenaded by the sound of cow bells from the many farm areas we passed through. The walk itself was really different as sometimes I walked on my own which was very pleasant time for reflection and then for awhile would walk with someone from our group or another pilgrim on the trail. Chatted with people from Ireland and Germany amongst others. Fascinating group.  The appeal of a cold beer loomed as the walk neared the end for the day and I was very pleased that myself and the other Marilyn in our group were the first two to finish with some coming in over an hour after.

We are back in Pamplona tonight where we will do doubt partake of some more pinchos washed don with some wine. We have a long climb tomorrow so should be challenging.

Start of the trail in Roncevalles

Church where Pilgrim mass was held

Ready to hit the trail

Up it goes with moisture to keep us cool

Beautiful old gate along the way. So much to look at.

Start of Camino

Well today is one I have been waiting for. I meet up with my group later today and travel to Roncesvalles to start my Camino. I know the walks will be long each day but I look forward to the challenge. Will be nice to have some English speaking travelers along.  I have had a great time in Pamplona and am very greatful that I took Spanish lessons as very few speak English. It is the first time ever that I have been in a foreign country on my own and I get satisfaction in how well I have gotten along.  Perhaps it is good to be in the situation where one must communicate themselves and not rely on someone else. Yes I mean you Eric.

Yesterday I walked the old city walls which is a five km route which takes you around the old town. Steeped in history it was a fascinating time. I can not get over how quiet some places are here. On this walk I only passed a half dozen people. The walk ended in the most beautiful manicured garden with acres of displays and even here I only came across two people other than the gardeners. Was a real pleasure to be able to wander without throngs of people.

I have now had my introduction to pinchos which is what they call tapas in Northern Spain. In the afternoon I sat in a bar in Plaza Del Castillo which Hemmingway used to frequent and had an amazing array of food with a glass of wine of course. In the evening I did as the locals do and went to a couple of places and had a pinchos at each. I am hooked.

The Spanish take their siestas seriously and most everything shuts down from 130-430. The streets are empty and do not really start to come alive until six or so. Wonderful to see all the families out with all their children.  Fun to see small children on their riding toys on the cobblestone streets.

City walls and walkway where pilgrims enter from the Camino

Gate into the city

Beautiful Taconera park

Wonderful selection of pinchos. Four gras twice in one day!