Monday, 23 September 2013

Visor Menor to San Juan de Ortega

The last two days have both dawned with absolutely stunning weather. Yesterday we started our 18 km walk with a steady climb to El alto del Perdon with stunning views back to Pamplona. Very windy at the top which was a welcome reprieve from the heat. After a steep and rocky decline for which I more than once voiced a love for my hiking poles we arrived in Muruzabal. We then detoured off the trail to visit the Church of Santa Maria de Eunate a stunning Romanesque church built in the twelfth century. Myself and Pearl, one of my fellow pilgrims were the first to arrive in time to watch, from outside the open doors a beautiful Spanish wedding.  After the wedding had departed the church we went inside and spent some time sitting and taking in the simplistic beauty.  Unfortunately for the rest of our group by the time they arrived the church was closed for siesta. As Eric had taken this four km detour to also find the church closed I felt truly lucky to have the opportunity to spend some time within.
Last night was spent in Logrono which is in La Rioja. Our visit coincided with the annual wine festival and the city was wild with people.  There were bands and parades and dancing in the streets which went well into the night. Several of us did a bar crawl, sampling pinchos and wine along the way. Great time
This morning we started our walk visiting an old monastery which was unfortunately closed but had beautiful grounds and buildings. The bell tower against the clear blue sky was a sight to behold. We then did a 22 km walk to Santo Domingo. The walk started through grape vines as far as you could see absolutely heavy with grapes. The anticipation of the finished product made the steps lighter. A steady incline to the high Rioja saw the vines change to huge piles of baled hay. The views were incredible all day and time flew. Met and talked with several pilgrims through the day which makes this journey even more special.  Passed an hour or so with a young Danish fellow discussing amongst other things what makes one a pilgrim. Finished the walk today in Santo Domingo where the highlight was a visit to the cathedral dating from 1232. One thing that has struck me many times in the last few days is how many have walked this exact same path over hundreds of years. Gives me a very special feeling and from a very personal view to know that Eric walked the very same path as I am on just a couple of weeks ago.
Spending the night in San Juan de Orteego at a delightful small hotel which our group of 16 fills. Attended the pilgrim mass where Clara, one of our group from Venezuela read the pilgrims blessing.
Have decided that every day on the Camino is a bad hair day though some of my group call it Camino sexy which sounds far better.

The windy top of the Alto de Perdon

Church of Santa Maria de Eunate
The inside of above church

Dancing in the streets of Logrono


Vineyards in the background. Getting closer to Santiago

Heavy vines just waiting to be made into good wine
Having fun by one of the many pilgrim statues along the way


Alter in the Cathedral in Santo Domingo 

1 comment:

  1. Glad to hear that you're having such an amazing time. I can hear the enthusiasm seeping through the words in your blog. So happy for you!!! Hope the knee is staying strong, and that the sun continues to follow you for the rest of your journey. Kids are also loving seeing the pictures of Grandma. Love you lots.

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