The Golden Monkeys and the Hirwa Gorilla Family

After the long hard trek into our first encounter with the gorillas I was certainly looking forward to a more civilized hike into the park to observe the Golden Monkeys.  Like the gorillas, this encounter is very controlled and a very limited number of people are allowed each day being two groups of twelve to the two different groups of monkeys. The hike to the park wall was about 45 minutes up a slow incline pass some farms and fields with children running out to wave at the strNge white people many with large smiles on their faces.

Endless fields, all worked by hand

Houses and fences all built with material taken right from the land

The local children. It was very rare in Rwanda to see a child with hair of any length.  One could distinguish girls and boys from their clothes

When we reached the park boundary we once again were met by an armed ranger who accompanied us inside the park.  We were told this was for our safety as there are buffalo and mountain elephants in the park as well as the monkeys and gorilla that we were going to see.  We did see lots of dropping that gave evidence to this fact but it is also true that poachers and perhaps other unfavorables may be within the park boundaries and the Rwandans want very much for this to be a very favorable experience for the public as they regard those making the trek ambassadors for their country.  Once we entered the park we had a delightful yet somewhat muddy hike through an interesting bamboo forest where the lofty bamboo was often covered with mass which was quite a different sight to see.  Once again the trackers had located the group of monkeys and once we joined them we got our hour to observe them.  They were up in the  bamboo so much of that time was spent peering up but it was worth it to watch these beautiful creatures in their own habitat.

Looks like he is contemplating us.

Enjoying lunch

Lookin a little leary but shows his back and why they are called golden monkeys

He was just sitting up on the bamboo tops

Got conned into a little local dancing that evening which was actually fun. This troup came up to the lodge from a local orphanage each evening and entertained the guests.  Garth really got into the action.

The next morning we went for our second gorilla trek and as our first one was so strenuous we requested a family that was closer.  We were thrilled to learn that we would be trekking in to spend time to visit the Hirwa group and that they were not far inside the park.  The exciting news was that in the family of nineteen there was a set of four year old twins, three babies and best yet the second biggest silverback in the world at over 220 kilograms.  Our journey started with a bang when taking a shortcut to the start of our walk one of our vehicles got stuck and even with the helpful push from he local boys it was going nowhere so all piled into the trusty old land rover for the rest of the rough trip up the hill.  It was a little like a ride at an amusement park.

Pushing hard just could not do the trick.  Our guide called it a Chinese four by four.

The ever helpful porters were waiting for us with walking sticks, ready to carry our bags and help in any way they could to make our experience a good one.

The walk to the park entrance took about half an hour and was quite delightful over level grasslands, crossing a small stream where some locals were collecting there daily water.

Once again we reached the entrance and the armed ranger

The walk through the forest was quite different than previously as this was much more a bamboo forest.  There were some steams to cross and a fair bit of mud but a great hike though I did feel the altitude once again.  Unfortunately the gorillas had not read the memo about being close by and were on the move with the trackers in pursuit.  At one point we crossed quite the river and climbed or should I say some of us were pulled up a rather steep muddy hill anxious to try and cut off the gorillas before they'd kept climbing.  Finally the guides said to drop our bags and follow quickly and we would halt their ascent.  It was quite a quick dash through some quite wet mucky terrain and unfortunately at one point my right foot sunk down way above my ankle and twisted my knee in the process.  Ouch!  But there were gorilla to see so carry on.

First one we came upon was a Mom sitting eating.  Our guide told us they are rather greedy and it was not until she moved that she revealed the cute little one in the next picture that was hidden behind her.

The little ones are not strong enough to eat the big shoots

This one was hanging out in the trees and I really like the prehistoric look of the forest

I was a outs 8 feet away from this giant and it was awesome and then he stood up!

The power in his arms was unbelievable.  He broke down the bamboo trees like they were twigs.

Such power but also a gentleness.  We never even thought to be nervous

How can you resist this face

He looks like he is saying I did not do it

Very entertaining gorilla pole dancing

A mothers face

Just hanging out.  There were so many gorillas to watch and all in such close proximity it was just unbelievable.  Two in our group were even brushed by gorillas. The amazing thing in all of this is that the gorilla do not seem in the least bit bothered by our presence.  They do not intentionally reach out and touch, they do seem to look at you sometimes but not in a threatening way.  It truly is an experience of a lifetime and one that is impossible to put into words when the guide says that the hour is up and that we must leave it is with great reluctance that we take our last looks at these magnificent primates that live free in these mountains hopefully for centuries to come.  

As we start down the mountain my knee lets me know with every step it is not happy but I can grit my teeth until I am faced with a steep downhill and admit a need a break to prepare and our guide insists I need a Rawandan helicopter and against my protests two strong porters form a chair with their arms and whisk me down the hill.  I do insist on walking most of the way. But every once and awhile on declines or river crossings before I know it I am off my feet and over to the other side.  They were so cheerful and helpful that it did make it easier and the guide even told me I should let myself be treated like a queen.  

My two angels.  At the end of the trek our porters who were both named John were quite delighted with the tip we gave them which was the equivalent of three days pay which we felt they more than earned!

That evening we finished of with a birthday celebration for Garth. A very fitting time to visiti the gorillas for his special day.