Hydra

To conclude our time in Greece we spent a couple of days on the unique island of Hydra.  A hilly 25 square mile island Hydra is totally traffic free.  Cars and motorcycles and scooters are not allowed and in fact we only saw one bicycle. The only two vehicles on the island belong to the doctor and the fire department. The only means of transportation is by foot or by donkey.  Not always an easy task when one looks at the hills involved.  Certainly puts a whole new meaning to grocery shopping.  The main town of Hydra is situated at the port with several small villages around the islands shoreline.  Water taxis are also available to take one from place to place on the island.  It was a wonderful reprieve to hike along the water and over the hills or just sit on the edge of the port enjoying a good meal. The Pirates Bar on the port was a great place to finish off the evening with a Greek cocktail in hand.  Hydra in the 1800s had a very busy ship building industry but after the Greek War of Independence this fell off and the islanders turned to sponge fishing for jobs free diving to 30 meters.  It was actually here that the use of diving suits started though at the beginning with quite disastrous results as the bends was frequent and they did not know how to treat it so it was fatal and many died.  The island was thrust onto the international stage when Sophia Loren filmed the movie Boy on a Dolphin about sponge diving here in 1956.  Foreigners started to arrive and it is now a tourist destination especially for those who what to get away from the bustle of the busier locations but not the place for someone who just wants to sit a as the only level ground is the port.

After two relaxing days in Hydra we took the two hour hydrofoil to Athens to prepare for our trip home. Our last stop was at the National Archaeological Museum which houses an amazing collection of Ancient Greek artifacts.  Many were found at sites we had visited which made them that much more interesting.  A relaxing lunch followed by one last walk through the Plaka before packing then a farewell dinner with all of our travel mates.  Back in our hotel our balcony looked out at the illuminated Parthenon.  A fitting farewell to this country that we have so enjoyed exploring and learning about on this fabulous trip.  Thank you Greece.

The ferry that we took from Metochi to Hydra

Fortress at the entry to the port. Cannons that once protected the port still remain.

Cobbled streets with no concern of being run down by a motorcycle.

Hydra had a lot of the white with blue trim that is so prevalent in Greek pictures 

The Harbour is absolutely jammed with boats of all descriptions from these old traditional boats to million dollar yachts.  Fun to watch everyone coming in at dinner time and jockeying for position.  Boats are all Med tied and the bottom of the harbor must be a tangle of anchors.

Lunch anyone?  Here some of the outside menus were only in Greek but once seated it was soon recognized that translated menus were in order

The local taxi stand and I am no kidding on this one

The port landing is the only level part on the island

Little restaurants are around every corner. Fun to explore

When one sees the topography of the island and realizes that the real estate here is pricey I find it quite amazing that they have been able to keep out all means of transportation.  One would think that the spoils would at least want a golf cart. That is what makes this island so special.  Tales with a woman in Athens who lived here for 21 years who said it sounds all quite romantic but after working a long shift and then carrying your groceries home up the hill in the blistering heat after awhile for some it loses the appeal.  I can see that but a wonderful place to visit and we wished we could have stayed longer.

A beach bar with steps leading down to a swimming platform where you will notice a swim ladder.  These are placed quite frequently along the rocky shore as the rocks are covered with sea urchins so this is the only way to enter the water.

Old windmills are dotted around the island in various states of repair.

A very dry island but residents make good use of pots to provide lots of greenery

More exploring 

This tiny church sits alone on an island just off shore and apparently is a very popular wedding site. The wedding party,priest, and guests go out in boats and only the wedding party and priest get off at the island and the guests circle around in their boats.

Small village on the shoreline we came across as we walked around

Pathway we took leading up into the hills

One of the villages up in the hills.  These residents definitely do not need a stair master 

This is a homes "car park". Many homes had two donkeys standing outside ready for whatever

Gentleman leading two donkeys loaded with building supplies 

Could not resist this picture. It is so clean and bright looking yet so simple 

Would be rather difficult to drive a car up this street

Leonard Cohen bought a house here in the 1960's which he owned until his death.  He wrote many song here including Bird on a Wire when he saw just that and spent a lot of time here.  His son now owns the house and in fact recently recorded an album here.  None of the streets in Hydra have name signs but after Leonard Cohens death they named the street by his home in his honor and put up a street sign.

Mystras, Mycenae and Ancient Epidavros

Over the next few days we visited three more of Greece's magnificent historical sites however it was not all history.  Our days were spent strolling the streets or along the shores at Nafplio which was our base, enjoying wonderful food in little sidewalk cafes, wine tastings with some ouzo and tsiporo thrown in for good measure.  We had a wonderful Greek dinner in a little family taverna with Mom, sister and brother doing all the cooking and serving. We were entertained with Greek music through dinner and then the dancers arrived.  By the end of the evening no one was allowed to remain seated and a fun time was had by all as we were taught a simple Greek dance.  Interacting with the locals is such a fun part of the trip.  All of the places we have stayed are family run and it is such a warm feeling.  Our guide is British born but married a Greek man and has lived here for over 30 years. Maria has been full of stories of Greek life from birth to death, jobs,the economy, religion,history and any thing else we might want to know.  What a personal way to learn about a country.  We have stopped at little places along the way that we would never have found on our own which has made this tour so much more worthwhile.

Mystras is the most important Byzantine site in Greece as it was here that the Byzantine Empire had its last stand before being taken over by the Ottomans.  At one time home to 15,000 there are now only six old nuns left living in the Monastry.  Built on a steep hill we started at the top and visited verbal of the churches on the way down to view ther frescoes which were painted by some of the Empires greatest artists.  A short visit to Sparta which dominated Ancient Greece in the fifth and sixth century BC was very anticlimactic as it was abandoned in the 13th century and its buildings were dismantled to build Mystras.

Mycenae was the oldest site we visited dating back to the 15th century BC. One enters through a large lions gate. A large civilization once lived here and large grave circles have been excavated which have revealed a large amount of treasures that were buried with the bodies and tell a lot about life 3000 years ago.  Amazing.

Epidavros was a site built more than 2500 years ago that the sick would go to seeking the help of the priests who were the early doctors. The ruins themselves are not that remarkable but the theater built nearly 2500 years ago is in magnificent condition and is even in use today for special performances as it has near perfect acoustics.

Leading to the church at the top of the hill at Mystras 

Ruins of the church where inside beautiful frescoes remain

The monks eating hall.

Remains of a three story house which show historians that people of wealth lived in this area

This rare frescoe depicts the birth of the Virgin Mary with her mother Ann

Archways leading to yet another church 

The frescoe above the entrance to this courtyard has survived the elements for hundreds of years

This is the Monastry where the six elderly nuns live up on the hill.  There is only a path to access it

The day we were in Sparta was the day of the Spartathalon which is a 250 kilometer grueling run

These are the uninspiring ruins of Sparta

One needs to eat and this was a delicious grilled calamari 

Eric was very pleased with his pork kleftiko

Large beehive tomb at Mycenae from the 15th century BC

Gold ornaments found in the grave circles from 1600-1500BC

Ceramic burial vase as in above illustration. This one dates back to 1050 BC

Canaanite jars recovered from a tomb 1400 BC

6th century BC ceramics also recovered from a grave

The lions gate entrance to Mycenae

One of the grave circles that was excavated where all the treasures were found

Golden treasures

The steep stairs of Nafplio where we spent time between visits to different sites

Group dinner at a family taverna

Greek dancing with a couple of good sports participating 

Surgical instruments used at ancient Epidavros 

The athletic stadium at Epidavros where competitions were held

Part of the ancient site under going restoration. Very tedious and expensive work

The 2500 year old theatre 

View from the top. Fabulous sound when someone clapped from center stage