Thursday, 5 October 2017

Kastania and Monemvasia

Traveling along we stopped for a visit at the charming village of Kastania.  A traditional Mani town wedged in a gorge it was a powerhouse during the Greek War of Independence in the 19th century but is now a sleepy little tow with almost as many churches as residents.  Built on a steep hillside it was a good workout to wander through the narrow allies which seemed empty to people.  The churches were open and some of them had the most beautiful frescoes. One thing we noticed that this town did not have any of the graffiti that is so prevalent in much of Greece.
Our next stop was a definite highlight.  Monemvasia is a gigantic rock that juts up from the sea and is connected to the mainland by a skinny spit of land.  This beautiful walled town with the remains of an upper town scattered on the peak high above is like stepping back in time.  Narrow stone pathways wind among buildings and homes in various states of repair with inviting little restaurants offering small patios with panorama views over the town and ocean.  We seemed to have hot this at a perfect time as there are not too many tourists and at times we had the alleys to ourselves which made it even better.  In the late evening when the lights came on it was almost magical.


Perched on a hillside this once bustling town has been abandoned by the young seeking greener pastures and is now a town of elders with many of them gathering in the town center at the only cafe for coffee and visiting daily.  How they get around on these steep rocky paths is beyond me.  One elderly gentleman was in a wheelchair and his elderly wife helps him around this town that is definitely not handicap friendly.
Another pathway leading to some homes.
One of the many local churches.  For a small town there is a large number of churches as many families built their own.
Beautiful murals on the walls of the Greek Orthodox churches tell the stories of Christ
This little town spills down the hillside.
A lunchtime stop at this seaside restaurant provided us with the fresher fish and calamari possible as the gentlemen on the left were catching them and they were being cleaned and immediately put on the grill before being delivered to our table.  Delicious.
These little red fish were quite delicious.  Once you removed the head and spine you ate the rest and they were crunchy with some sweetness to the taste.
The rock of Monemvasia is often compared to the Rock of Gibraltar 
  
Monemvasia means single entry and this is the only way into this charming walled 13th century town
Stunning views in every direction 
The ancient homes with their red roofs toppled down towards the sea.
The towering rock was an impressive backdrop 
 The ancient upper town sits high on the rock looking down on the lower part
 Pedestrian only, narrow alleyways give one lots to explore 
Greenery and flowers make for inviting entrance ways.
The Main Street of Monemvasia with charming shops and restaurants 
Tourists out exploring
Cats must be the national animal of Greece.  They are absolutely out of control. Apparently they do not belong to any individual but people do put food out on ther porches so they are well fed. There was not one restaurant that we were in that did not have at least one cat wandering around and some had several.  You can imagine that this was not our favorite memory of Greece
The Main Street in the evening 
Looking high up the top of the rock
One can still walk along the walls of the town
The ruins at the top of the rock
The ancient bell tower 
We could have spent hours exploring these delightful pathways 
The doorways were unique and interesting as well
There was not a single street name or house number or identification. I assume everyone just knows who lives where.
One never knows where you might come out
Beautiful flowers amongst the stone work
The view from he top was worth the climb
The Church of Agia Sophia was converted to a mosque in the 16th century when the Turks were in control but later returned to Greek Orthodox 
Many of the frescoes in the church were destroyed by the Turks when they converted it to a mosque as they white washed the interior but fragments have been recovered 
Passageway in the top town walls
Up on the top amongst the ruins
The residential area
Walkway along the walls
The far end of the town
Greek fishing boats in Gefyra
Beach off Monemvasia 
Gorgeous sunrise at Monemvasia 

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