Xegar to Kathmandu

Today October 23rd we left Xegar to head towards our last stop in Tibet which is Kyirong.  Today was mostly travelling but we did go up a very long switch back to cross the Gongtang La pass at 17,400 feet and gave us spectacular views.  We got our last looks at Everest as well as many lush farms and spectacular peaks and the beautiful blue waters of Peigutso Lake.  From the top of the pass we started down a rather steep and sometimes scary descent to the town of Kyirong which in Tibetan means Valley of Happiness and sitting at 9185 feet and surrounded by high snow covered peaks this city has quite the picturesque setting.  Like other Tibetan cities there is a lot of construction going on as the Chinese try and move more of the Chinese population into the area though lots of the buildings are sitting empty.

After our night in Kyirong it was time to say goodbye to Tibet and enter Nepal. Little did we know what the day held in store.  We drove to the border where we all had to get out once before at a checkpoint to clear our passports.  Once we reached the border we had to walk through with our luggage which was put through security and we went through border control.  Once cleared of Chinese customs we then had to walk along a dirt road that was literally jammed with Nepalese trucks trying to clear customs,towards the Nepal customs.  Once we got to the Nepal customs our guide took all our passports in to clear customs which took over an hour and a half.  Meanwhile we were settling in the vehicles which would take us to Kathmandu.  We had been told the road was rough and dusty in spots but that was a major under statement.  The vehicles were 4x4s but were in less than optimal shape.  Many lacked seatbelts,etc.  Finally we got going only to be stopped at another check point soon after where we had to get out and open all our suitcases for the police.  We are so lucky to live where we do.  The dirt road we drove on for over eight hours was the worst I have ever been on.  It was steep up and down the mountains with big drop offs and parts of it were washed away.  Pot holes does not even begin to describe the bumps.The plus was that the scenery during daylight was beautiful and was a welcome distraction from the ride itself.  As we were at a lower elevation the mountains were lush with greenery and we passed through many interesting villages.  The ride got a lot scarier after dark as the road seemed to get even worse and our driver seemed to speed up plus he started to take calls while careening up the mountain. Not acceptable and we finally told him so as we really wanted to make it in one piece.  Seeing the lights of Kathmandu was quite the relief but of course our driver decided to take a detour and go get gas instead of taking us to the hotel first.  Not cool after eleven hours on the road.  Never so glad to exit a vehicle in my life.

As we drove towards Kyirong flat farmlands had beautiful rolling hillls behind them and the Himalayas behind that. Stunning

We saw nothing but blue sky. We were so lucky as it certainly set everything off

Some of our last looks at the Himalayas 

Wild antelope played along the road side

As did wild donkeys 

Love the way the wind blows the snow on the mountain. Everything is so dry

A herd of wild donkeys 

A beautiful blue lake set amongst the rolling brown hills

And of course some yaks just wandering along the road.  Obviously belong to someone but no one in sight.

A pair of black necked cranes

The sun on the mountain outside our hotel in Kyirong as we were getting ready to head to Nepal. Farewell Tibet.

Waiting at the Nepal border

The villages spilled down the mountain side

The road is way up high as you can see from how far down the valley is

A little scary when the road is narrow with no edges but very scenic


And the road falls away to the right

Villages built into the hillside

Sometimes I just felt like praying 

Believe it or not this was a good part of the road

The villages were a welcome distraction 

Rice paddies went both up and down the hills

We did not see any flat land on this part of our trip

The villages were all a mush mash of stores. Not quite what we are used to.

Everest Basecamp

Today October 22nd was definitely a highlight of our trip and one we will never forget.  We rose before dawn and travelled up the 17,000 Pang La pass and waited in the freezing cold for sunrise to light up the majaestic face of Everest and the surrounding peaks.  Words cannot begin to describe the beauty as the astonishing panorama of soaring peaks appear out of the darkness. To stand and gaze upon the highest peak in the world and in fact the six highest all at one time on a picture perfect morning was beyond our wildest hopes.  As the sun came up a small light appeared on the peak of Everest and then the light majically spread down her faces. It was the most magnificent light show Heaven sent and of course it was repeated on all the surrounding peaks.  Many hugs and tears were shared.

We then snaked down through the picturesque Zakar River Valley until we reached the Rongbuk Monastery which is the highest monastery in the world at 16,354 feet.  After some tea and snacks we hiked three kilometres to the Everest Mt Qomolanga Base Camp.  I know three kilometres does not sound far but at 17,000 feet it sure is harder than at sea level.  The weather was perfect and time spent at base camp was special.  Many photos were taken and memories will be cherished. To actually stand on Everest was a once in a lifetime moment but one that won’t be forgotten.  Returning to the monastery we finished a perfect day with a special candle lighting blessing for each of us.  Our time spent in this country has been truly remarkable.

Our first glimpses of the mighty Everest coming out of the darkness.

What a majestic sight.  It was more than worth braving the cold to watch the mountains appear from the dark and then light up.

Cold but thrilled and very happy

The light show begins.

The light on the mountains was absolutely vibrant

A once in a lifetime experience 

The mountains are literally alive with sparkling light

These mountains though very big are small next to Everest 

And we are getting closer to Everest

Early morning the wind off the top of the mountain is light as one can tell by the blowing snow

Base camp is getting closer but still a ways to go

What a perfect day we had.  I call it more than luck. So many go and never get to see the whole mountain 

This yak seemed to be heading to base camp as well

Winds are picking up and we are getting closer. What a sight

Would not be a good time to go for the summit but no fear here as that would never be in the cards but the stories from Peter who did were fascinating 

Made it!   To stand here with Peter Hilary is extra special 

Can’t believe I am actually at Everest base camp. What an epic trip

We are so lucky to have these experiences together.  What memories we are making.

Base camp with new friends.  Travel is a wonderful life experience.

Rongbuk Monastery, the highest monastery in the world

Treasures within the monastery 

Everest

We left Shigatse on October 21st and headed to Xegar which would be our base for our visit to Everest.  Along the way we made our first stop and took a hike up to 15,030 feet which gave us a panoramic view over the tops of the treeless mountains of Tibet as we are above the tree line.  Along the way we pass through many small villages and lots of pastures full of hundreds of sheep, cows, and yaks being attended to by the shepherds.  A hard life.  Every once and awhile seemingly out in the middle of nowhere you pass through areas where there is all kinds of building going on, most of it empty all in an attempt to encourage movement from China.  Our lunch stop was a very picturesque area along a riverbank with yaks grazing across the way.  Two young children watched as we ate and all the leftovers were given to the local family.  I would think this was prearranged.  Driving further along up Lakota La Pass we stopped for our challenge of the day which was a hike to 17,121 feet for a possible glimpse of Everest.  Going up hill my lungs were on fire and the wind was absolutely howling. It was incredibly hard but I was determined. Many turned back.  Almost at the top there was a rather steep incline and I collapsed there and told Eric to go on. I really felt I was going to get blown off the mountain.  The wind eased and Kerrin and I heard those at the top with a flag and with her encouragement we decided to go for it.  Best decision ever because the sense of accomplishment I felt when I stood at that peak with Eric is something I will carry with me forever.  Also special to share that moment with Peter Hilary, one of the worlds great mountaineers.

We then drove to Xegar which is at 14,268 feet.  We checked into the Qomolagma Hotel which we had been repeatedly warned by our guides was at the bottom of the star list but was the best for our visit to Everest.  When Eric and I checked into our room we discovered it was the one in the hotel without any heat and was below zero.  Tried toughing it out but couldn’t do it. Fortunately we did get moved but won’t be on our return list but I know the next two days will more than make up for the discomfort. First time I’ve ever gone into a dining room dressed like I’m going out in the snow.

Villages nestled at the base of mountains 

Feeling like we were on top of the world 

We keep getting higher but this hike was easy compared to the next one

Life is good 

Judy bargaining for some yak wool

Herds of yak

We were watched over by local children while we ate lunch 

Interesting farm vehicles 

This lady is collecting yak dung

A boy and his cow

Sheep, ice and a snow peak of the Himalayas showing through 

Climbing up to 17,121 feet. The last bit was a real scramble 

It was tough but felt great to make it to the top

A little rest was in order after that exertion 

Looking down,  way way down

Eric and Peter making their way down from the peak in the background 

Tiny village along the way

A hotel that other than location would never get stayed at.  Owned by the Chinese government and suffice it to say they do not care about service in any way shape or form.