Lhasa, Experience in Alltitude

On Saturday the 13th we started our preparation for our assen to Lhasa at 11,972 feet by taking our drugs which for Eric meant Diomox and me Dexametasone.  We met briefly with our guides for the trip Peter Hilary and Yam Gurung and our fellow travelling companions before settling in for a short sleep in Beijing.  Leaving at 0545 we headed fro the airport and boarded Air China for our flight to Lhasa via Chengdu.  Security was tight at the airport and something else that was certainly new to us was the very definite security announcement on the plane by the security officer to inform passengers that they were being videotaped and listened to at all times.  Definitely not Air Canada.  Approaching Lhasa we got our first views of the Himalayas.Astounding and exciting.  We were greet at the airport by the traditional Tibetan welcome of a white silk scarf knotted around our neck.  Nice touch.  After checking in and a short rest we had a nightly briefing by Peter and Yam where tonight Peter shared the story of his Fathers and Norgays historic climb of Everest in 1953.  Eric and I are feeling good, just a little shor of breath on exertion so hopefully the drugs are doing the trick. Unfortunately for some they are having quite a rough time.

Monday morning we started our exploring of Tibet with a visit to the largest monastery in the country the Drepung Monastery.  Once home to up to 10,000 monks it now homes around 700 as the draw to the monk hood in Tibet has gone down greatly as the Tibetans do not trust the close scrutiny of the Chinese security forces imposed sixes the 1950s.  Founded in 1416 it was the home of the Dalai Lama until the 5th Dalai Lama constructed the Potala Palace.  It was known for its high standards of academic study.  We visited the great hall where the monks gather daily, the chapel which contains all the relic and where there were many locals paying there respects with scarves, yak butter and money.  We also visited the rather primitive kitchen where all the meals are made.  It was a different feeling to walk through the living quarters of the first of the Dalai Lamas.

After lunch at a typical Tibetan restaurant we stopped at the Chupzang Nunnery which was mostly destroyed during the cultural revolution.  Established in 1665 it used to house 100’s of nuns but is now home to only a few dozen young nuns who study under the monks from the nearby Séra Monastery.  They were all smiling and welcoming.

We next visited the Séra Monastery to view a theatrical debate amongst the monks where they are questioning each other in preparation for exams.  This Monastery was founded in 1419 but suffered great damage in 1959 during the revolt when hundreds of monks were killed and hundreds of others fled to India with the Dalai Lama and set up a Séra Monastery there.  There were some exquisite sand mandalas on display that had been made by the monks.

A walk back through the narrow alleys of the old town with its colourful shops and bustling locals was a great way to end a busy day.

That evening at briefing everyone did a short introduction of themselves.  Interesting well traveled group of people.  Hope those not doing well with altitude improve.

Our first glimpse of the Himalayas as we flew into Lhasa.

Eric getting a white scarf on arrival to Tibet.  It is knotted three times in a traditional welcome 

The great group of fellow travelers 

The Drepung Monastery 

A local turning the prayer wheels. These wheels are everywhere throughout Tibet and many carry small ones in their hands as they walk along constantly turning them.

Monks on the colourful hallway of the monastery 

Like children everywhere these two looked a little bored with the day.

Monks chanting within the Great Hall

The monastery always sit high on the hill looking down over the city.  It certainly must have been quite the task to build them in that position so long ago.

This lady was hoping for a handout from those visiting the monastery 

Buddhists put yak butter into this tin to keep the flames burning.  Distinctive but not unpleasant aroma.

Love the faces and dress of the locals.  Probably not as old as one thinks.

This is a Tibetan washing machine at the nunnery

These Mandela’s are made from coloured sand.  Four monks work on them at a time and generally they are left to wash away but at Sera Monastery they have saved a couple for people to see  The intricacy in the them is amazing.

How four individuals can produce this symmetry is quite mind boggling 

French fries anyone?

Sera Monastery 

Beautiful painting on the rocks

Even the young wanted their pictures taken with us.

Here the monks are doing practice debates to prepare for their exams as the monastery is a type of school and university as well.

Colourful shops line the narrow streets.

The meat market is not quite what we are used to at home.  I shutter to think what they do with the yak head but it certainly was not uncommon to see these for sale.