Heading off

Thursday morning bright and early we boarded buses and headed to the private terminal at Ottawa airport where we boarded our Canada North flight to Iqaluit.  No security,  the buses pulled up beside the plane and after showing our passports we were welcomed aboard for the 3 hour flight north.  As we approached our destination we could see icebergs floating in the ocean which were a clear indication that we were in a much colder climate.  Back on buses at the airport we were welcomed by a local who told us we were the first tourists since Covid so they were thrilled.  We drove sraight to the shore where we boarded zodiacs which took us out to the Ocean Endeavour anchored out in the bay.  The zodiac drivers then had to make many more trips to collect all the luggage and supplies.  The afternoon was spent on mandatory lifeboat drill, introductions of the expedition team, a talk on polar bear safety and time on deck taking pictures and enjoying the surroundings.  We were supposed to set sail but there were two big speed bumps.  First we learned that an ice flow had blocked the entrance to Frobisher Bay where we were anchored and we were waiting for an ice breaker to come and lead us out and that would not be until 0530 the next morning. This was met with a lot of interest and with most planning to get up early to experience the event.  Later in the evening we were informed that an essential member of the bridge had not yet arrived due to travel delays and they were not sure when this would happen and we could not leave without him.  This means spending at least tomorrow at anchor and I must admit that Eric and I are less than impressed.

Friday morning dawned with a thick fog which quickly burned off.  As we are unable to sail a tour of Iqaluit has been arranged. We headed back into town by zodiac and were picked up by buses, each one with a local guide.  Iqaluit is a city of 8000 and is the capital of Nunavut.  Approximately 60% of the population is Inuit with the two main jobs being government and fishing.  Tourism has really taken off with dog sledding being particularly popular.

The homes and buildings are all built on stilts due to the heavy permanent frost which would warp the buildings if they were built on foundations.  Water is delivered to tanks which are inside each building and honey trucks regularly pump out the heated sewage tanks which are below each home and building as piping is not possible due to the extreme cold and rocky environment.  Each home has a red light on the outside of it which lets the water and sewage drivers know when they need to be serviced.  We visited a small collection of original Hudson Bay buildings from the 1640’s.  Amazing that they would survive this long.  Scattered outside most every house is a collection of skidoos, dog sleds and ATV,s, all in various states of repair.the hospital is one of the most modern buildings with a beautiful polar bear mural out front.  We visited the small museum which had a collection of some wonderful native carvings from all over the Arctic.  Returning to the boat we have our fingers crossed that we will sail sometime today.

Boarding our Canada North charter flight got Iqaluit.  Right off the bus and on to the plane, no security and no waiting.  Wish flying was always this easy!

Approaching the Arctic with icebergs visible in the ocean below the plane and ice dotting the shoreline.

Not a great picture taken through airplane window but loved the casual look of the pilots arm out the window.  Who knew these windows even opened?

Signs in Iqaluit were trilingual as all three languages are spoken here with kindergarten and grade one taught solely in induit and from then on students have the choice of English or French stream.

Our transportation out to the ship.

Zodiac drivers had to make many trips to deliver all the luggage to the ship.  Amazing how much luggage people bring despite instructions to bring only one each.

Our view of Iqaluit from the ship.  This was supposed to be our only view but we did indeed get a tour the next day as we waited for the ice breaker and the Captain to arrive.

The local school was built with very few windows as it was felt that with the long dark days it would be better for the students not to have views of the outside.

This igloo church is a standout in the town.  It is an Anglican Church but the ramp to the left has just been added as Iqaluit is one of the places that the Pope is visiting next week while he is in Canada to apologize for the residential schools.

This Hudson Bay Outpost has been here since the 1640’s

Every yard had various sorts of skidoos, dog sleds and ATV’s

This is the local marina at low tide.  Boats are used for fishing and hunting.

An Inuit carving in the museum made out of whale bone

Outside of town is a large dog park where everyone keeps their sled dogs during the summer months.  A large percentage of people have dog teams for their own personal use or for tourism.  The park is cleaned daily and the dogs well cared for as people consider them part of the family.

A spectacular sunset to conclude our first full day in the Arctic.