La Virginia del Camino to Astorga

Yesterday saw us walking from La Virgen del Camino to Villadangos del Paramo. The trail was not to picturesque along this route but the weather was once again spectacular and spirits are high. I keep pinching myself to prove that I am really doing this. With over one hundred kms walked over six days I am feeling great. After a short walk which just flew by as I chatted with fellow pilgrims we were back in Leon which left us time to explore before a guided tour. Pearl and I took the time to explore some of the ancient streets and walked outside the ancient city walls. Was quite a sight to see an ambulance pulled up to an arch in the wall to take a patient into the hospital which is still housed in an ancient building.  Our guided tour took us through the beautiful cathedral which was built in the 13th century and has 125 beautiful stained glass windows. We were blessed with a sunny day so the windows were stunning. To top it off there is an organ festival going on and the organ was being played some while we were inside. It was something that sent shivers down my spine. What lucky timing. Last night we had a group dinner in an old mansion.  Food was delicious and there was a lot of stories and laughter.  

Today we started out in lovely sunshine from Hospital del Orbigo. The beautiful Romanesque bridge out of town is one of the longest and best preserved along the Way dating back to the 13th century and was the location of a famous jousting contest in 1434. The path took us up and down hills through miles of farmland boasting corn and potatoes amongst others. As I walked by an open barn door the farmer came out with plums for us to eat. At another lookout over the city of Asorga a Spanish fellow sat with his guitar singing a song about the Camino. Stopped for a short conversation and he only spoke Spanish. Another of so many special memories. The road into Astorga was steep and hot but we were rewarded by walking directly into our hotel were boots were quickly shed and it was off to the square for a much anticipated clara which is a mixture of beer and lime soda. Very refreshing. I also had a plate of one of the best foie gras I have ever had. When I spoke with Eric soon after I found out that he had sat at the same restaurant the day before and enjoyed the same dish. We really do think alike

Leon cathedral at night

Inside the cathedral

Beautiful stained glass

Stork nests on the bell tower

Bridge out of Hospital del Orbigo

On the trail

Friends make the time fly by

Many pilgrim statues along the Way

Some of them are made in fun

Foie gras. What away to treat myself after the walk and yes I did share with some of my pilgrim friends

San Juan de Ortega to Ccastrojeriz

We left San Juan under beautiful sunny skies and walked through some delightful small villages. We did a lot of climbing today,some of it over quite rough terrain but the changing country side and views were well worth it. The days seem to fly by and the 20 kms or so do not seem to be that long. One meets and talks to people from all over the world. Even had a very basic conversation with a French fellow who spoke no English. Amazing how many countries are represented on the trail and it is very rare to pass or be passed without some kind of greeting. Ended the day in Burgos. Where we had a subzero lunch in the main plaza. I started with four gras and finished with Galician octopus which was devine. The cathedral was spectacular. I am still in awe over how these magnificent structures were built over 700 years ago. The workmanship is unbelievable.

This morning saw us start out from Hornillos to Castrojeriz. Was a long slow climb up then decent into the quaint little town of Hontana before meandering through grain fields to reach Castrojeriz. Several bikers passed along the way as well as a couple on horseback. Weather was once again beautiful but after walking in 30 degrees the beer at the end was more than welcome.  After touring the twelfth century cathedral in Castrojeriz we travelled to Leon for the night. This is a delightful city with winding pedestrian streets opening onto squares and another cathedral that is a sight to behold. The streets are lined with tables from one restaurant after another and we sat and ate a wonderful meal with a direct view of the illuminated cathedral. Spectacular. Strange to think that Eric was here last night but will still be some time before we are together.  We will certainly have so much to share .

I have always wanted to be taller

All sorts of shells and arrows mark the way

Galician octopus and it was delicious!

Altar in cathedral in Bergos. Overwhelming 

On the trail and happy every step

And on it goes

Leon cathedral. I will never tire of these

Visor Menor to San Juan de Ortega

The last two days have both dawned with absolutely stunning weather. Yesterday we started our 18 km walk with a steady climb to El alto del Perdon with stunning views back to Pamplona. Very windy at the top which was a welcome reprieve from the heat. After a steep and rocky decline for which I more than once voiced a love for my hiking poles we arrived in Muruzabal. We then detoured off the trail to visit the Church of Santa Maria de Eunate a stunning Romanesque church built in the twelfth century. Myself and Pearl, one of my fellow pilgrims were the first to arrive in time to watch, from outside the open doors a beautiful Spanish wedding.  After the wedding had departed the church we went inside and spent some time sitting and taking in the simplistic beauty.  Unfortunately for the rest of our group by the time they arrived the church was closed for siesta. As Eric had taken this four km detour to also find the church closed I felt truly lucky to have the opportunity to spend some time within.

Last night was spent in Logrono which is in La Rioja. Our visit coincided with the annual wine festival and the city was wild with people.  There were bands and parades and dancing in the streets which went well into the night. Several of us did a bar crawl, sampling pinchos and wine along the way. Great time

This morning we started our walk visiting an old monastery which was unfortunately closed but had beautiful grounds and buildings. The bell tower against the clear blue sky was a sight to behold. We then did a 22 km walk to Santo Domingo. The walk started through grape vines as far as you could see absolutely heavy with grapes. The anticipation of the finished product made the steps lighter. A steady incline to the high Rioja saw the vines change to huge piles of baled hay. The views were incredible all day and time flew. Met and talked with several pilgrims through the day which makes this journey even more special.  Passed an hour or so with a young Danish fellow discussing amongst other things what makes one a pilgrim. Finished the walk today in Santo Domingo where the highlight was a visit to the cathedral dating from 1232. One thing that has struck me many times in the last few days is how many have walked this exact same path over hundreds of years. Gives me a very special feeling and from a very personal view to know that Eric walked the very same path as I am on just a couple of weeks ago.

Spending the night in San Juan de Orteego at a delightful small hotel which our group of 16 fills. Attended the pilgrim mass where Clara, one of our group from Venezuela read the pilgrims blessing.

Have decided that every day on the Camino is a bad hair day though some of my group call it Camino sexy which sounds far better.

The windy top of the Alto de Perdon

Church of Santa Maria de Eunate

The inside of above church

Dancing in the streets of Logrono

Vineyards in the background. Getting closer to Santiago

Heavy vines just waiting to be made into good wine

Having fun by one of the many pilgrim statues along the way

Alter in the Cathedral in Santo Domingo 

On the Camino!

Met up with my fellow group of travellers yesterday afternoon and could not have hand picked a better bunch. Everyone is enthused, friendly and ready to hit the trail. The Marly Tour group are so warm and welcoming and very well organized. They have thought of everything right down to special foot cream. We went by  Mercedes tour bus to Roncesvalles where we had some time to explore around this small but very significant village on the Camino. In the evening we attended a pilgrim mass at the old church. Even though most of it was not understandable due to language constraints it was very moving. At the end they called up all pilgrims(everyone at the service) for a special blessing and a beautiful song sung by the four priests. There was more than one teardrop in the crowd.

This morning was the real start of this great adventure. We awoke to pouring rain which did not dampen any spirits. For those who know me well you know that I do not like being out in the rain so my eagerness to start walking in the wet was a bit of a miracle in itself.  We covered eighteen kms today from Roncesvalles to Alto de Erro. The trail varied from winding trails through the woods, rocky pathes, roads through very small towns and some muddy areas due to the rain. There were a lot of ups and downs just to make it interesting. With the misty shrouded Pyrennes in view we were often serenaded by the sound of cow bells from the many farm areas we passed through. The walk itself was really different as sometimes I walked on my own which was very pleasant time for reflection and then for awhile would walk with someone from our group or another pilgrim on the trail. Chatted with people from Ireland and Germany amongst others. Fascinating group.  The appeal of a cold beer loomed as the walk neared the end for the day and I was very pleased that myself and the other Marilyn in our group were the first two to finish with some coming in over an hour after.

We are back in Pamplona tonight where we will do doubt partake of some more pinchos washed don with some wine. We have a long climb tomorrow so should be challenging.

Start of the trail in Roncevalles

Church where Pilgrim mass was held

Ready to hit the trail

Up it goes with moisture to keep us cool

Beautiful old gate along the way. So much to look at.

Start of Camino

Well today is one I have been waiting for. I meet up with my group later today and travel to Roncesvalles to start my Camino. I know the walks will be long each day but I look forward to the challenge. Will be nice to have some English speaking travelers along.  I have had a great time in Pamplona and am very greatful that I took Spanish lessons as very few speak English. It is the first time ever that I have been in a foreign country on my own and I get satisfaction in how well I have gotten along.  Perhaps it is good to be in the situation where one must communicate themselves and not rely on someone else. Yes I mean you Eric.

Yesterday I walked the old city walls which is a five km route which takes you around the old town. Steeped in history it was a fascinating time. I can not get over how quiet some places are here. On this walk I only passed a half dozen people. The walk ended in the most beautiful manicured garden with acres of displays and even here I only came across two people other than the gardeners. Was a real pleasure to be able to wander without throngs of people.

I have now had my introduction to pinchos which is what they call tapas in Northern Spain. In the afternoon I sat in a bar in Plaza Del Castillo which Hemmingway used to frequent and had an amazing array of food with a glass of wine of course. In the evening I did as the locals do and went to a couple of places and had a pinchos at each. I am hooked.

The Spanish take their siestas seriously and most everything shuts down from 130-430. The streets are empty and do not really start to come alive until six or so. Wonderful to see all the families out with all their children.  Fun to see small children on their riding toys on the cobblestone streets.

City walls and walkway where pilgrims enter from the Camino

Gate into the city

Beautiful Taconera park

Wonderful selection of pinchos. Four gras twice in one day!

Pamplona

Well I am finally here in Spain. Long day yesterday but it did help that I got upgraded. Nice to start my adventure with champagne.  The only un-nerving moment was when we were hit by lightening a few minutes out of Vancouver.  Made the loudest bang and filled the cabin with a flash. Was pleased to learn that planes are made for this but not an experience that I want to repeat anytime soon.

Have been out exploring Pamplona today.  Love the twisty narrow pedestrian streets that open up into welcoming squares lined with bars and shops.  The Europeans certainly know how to make their towns and cities people friendly.

I did what is referred to as the walk of the tourist which is following the path of the running of the bulls right from the corrall , through the narrow streets to the bull ring.  I can only imagine, with some help from Hemingway how exciting it must be with the streets lined with upwards of a million people cheering on a large group of thrill seekers being chased by a bunch of angry bulls each morning at 8am for a week every July.

Spent of couple of very peaceful hours exploring the Cathedral Santa Maria and its adjoining cloisters.  This was built in the 13th and 14th century and though the outside is quite plain one steps into a wonderful Gothic church lit by towering stain glass windows. The statues are exquisite and some date back to 1320.  I was lucky enough to have the church and cloisters to myself for quite a long period of time and it was quite humbling to sit and contemplate what has taken place in here over the centuries.

Start of the running of the bulls

Statue in honor of the yearly event

Side walkway in the church and bell tower below

Departure Time is Here

This was taken in May when we were in Mildenberg and at the time my Camino journey seemed so far off. All of a sudden the time is here and I leave in two days.  It has been exciting to follow Eric's progress over the last two weeks and I am more than ready to put on my walking shoes.  I look forward to a great experience and I know my nerves will settle once I arrive and settle in Spain.  Certainly amazing to realize that pilgrims in the past walked over 2500 kms and probably in bare feet so compared to that my 260kms should be a walk in the park!