Goodbye Rwanda

Visiting Rwanda was a really interesting experience apart from the gorilla and monkey trek.  For me it was really interesting to see how the people of this country live every day.  Driving through the mountainous countryside most all of the mountain sides have been cultivated to farmland right up to the top which not is an easy feat knowing it is mostly done by hand.  Most of the agriculture was for subsistence though they do export coffee.  The first couple of people we passed carrying heavy loads was quite an eye opener but it soon became a very frequent sight.

Potatoes going to market

Even the young start early with this little fellow carrying some firewood on his back.  As Rwanda is very hilly this daily chore must be very strenuous..

The hillsides were all terraced and were used to their full potential. It made us wonder where the wild animals had been displaced to as there was very little natural growth left.  Conservation has taken place in the Vocanoes National Park where the gorillas live but did not seem to extend farther.  It was interesting observing the population as there seems to be a higher ratio of younger people and definitely a lot of babies all being carried on their mothers back.

For the dozens of babies we saw we did not see single baby stroller of any description which certainly is different from home.  It was not unusual to see the infants on the backs of their young siblings so responsibility starts early.

Brother looking after brother.

Busy roadside markets are held regularly for the locals to sell and exchange thier produce and wares.

Our last stop in Rwanda was at the Genocide Memorial in Kigali. This was definitely one of life's very sobering experiences.  In 1994 over a period of 100 days over one million Rwandans were brutally murdered, often by their friends and neighbors because they were born Tutsie.  The genicides in Rwanda was between the two native tribes, the Hutu and Tutsie who had existed side by side for centuries until outsiders started interference.  Whole families were killed and thousands were left orphaned at the end of these most horrific times.  Best friends and even family members had turned on each other.  One message I heard from survivors messages was the inability to trust and it is no wonder.  How this nation has picked up and gone on with the grace and happiness that they portray is a testament to the human spirit beyond anything I can even begin to imagine.  

The eternal flame that burns at the site where 250,000 victims are buried.

As we boarded our plane for South Africa once again we felt so lucky that we had the chance to visit and experience the incredible times we had in Rwanda but we are so very thankful that we call Canada home.

The Golden Monkeys and the Hirwa Gorilla Family

After the long hard trek into our first encounter with the gorillas I was certainly looking forward to a more civilized hike into the park to observe the Golden Monkeys.  Like the gorillas, this encounter is very controlled and a very limited number of people are allowed each day being two groups of twelve to the two different groups of monkeys. The hike to the park wall was about 45 minutes up a slow incline pass some farms and fields with children running out to wave at the strNge white people many with large smiles on their faces.

Endless fields, all worked by hand

Houses and fences all built with material taken right from the land

The local children. It was very rare in Rwanda to see a child with hair of any length.  One could distinguish girls and boys from their clothes

When we reached the park boundary we once again were met by an armed ranger who accompanied us inside the park.  We were told this was for our safety as there are buffalo and mountain elephants in the park as well as the monkeys and gorilla that we were going to see.  We did see lots of dropping that gave evidence to this fact but it is also true that poachers and perhaps other unfavorables may be within the park boundaries and the Rwandans want very much for this to be a very favorable experience for the public as they regard those making the trek ambassadors for their country.  Once we entered the park we had a delightful yet somewhat muddy hike through an interesting bamboo forest where the lofty bamboo was often covered with mass which was quite a different sight to see.  Once again the trackers had located the group of monkeys and once we joined them we got our hour to observe them.  They were up in the  bamboo so much of that time was spent peering up but it was worth it to watch these beautiful creatures in their own habitat.

Looks like he is contemplating us.

Enjoying lunch

Lookin a little leary but shows his back and why they are called golden monkeys

He was just sitting up on the bamboo tops

Got conned into a little local dancing that evening which was actually fun. This troup came up to the lodge from a local orphanage each evening and entertained the guests.  Garth really got into the action.

The next morning we went for our second gorilla trek and as our first one was so strenuous we requested a family that was closer.  We were thrilled to learn that we would be trekking in to spend time to visit the Hirwa group and that they were not far inside the park.  The exciting news was that in the family of nineteen there was a set of four year old twins, three babies and best yet the second biggest silverback in the world at over 220 kilograms.  Our journey started with a bang when taking a shortcut to the start of our walk one of our vehicles got stuck and even with the helpful push from he local boys it was going nowhere so all piled into the trusty old land rover for the rest of the rough trip up the hill.  It was a little like a ride at an amusement park.

Pushing hard just could not do the trick.  Our guide called it a Chinese four by four.

The ever helpful porters were waiting for us with walking sticks, ready to carry our bags and help in any way they could to make our experience a good one.

The walk to the park entrance took about half an hour and was quite delightful over level grasslands, crossing a small stream where some locals were collecting there daily water.

Once again we reached the entrance and the armed ranger

The walk through the forest was quite different than previously as this was much more a bamboo forest.  There were some steams to cross and a fair bit of mud but a great hike though I did feel the altitude once again.  Unfortunately the gorillas had not read the memo about being close by and were on the move with the trackers in pursuit.  At one point we crossed quite the river and climbed or should I say some of us were pulled up a rather steep muddy hill anxious to try and cut off the gorillas before they'd kept climbing.  Finally the guides said to drop our bags and follow quickly and we would halt their ascent.  It was quite a quick dash through some quite wet mucky terrain and unfortunately at one point my right foot sunk down way above my ankle and twisted my knee in the process.  Ouch!  But there were gorilla to see so carry on.

First one we came upon was a Mom sitting eating.  Our guide told us they are rather greedy and it was not until she moved that she revealed the cute little one in the next picture that was hidden behind her.

The little ones are not strong enough to eat the big shoots

This one was hanging out in the trees and I really like the prehistoric look of the forest

I was a outs 8 feet away from this giant and it was awesome and then he stood up!

The power in his arms was unbelievable.  He broke down the bamboo trees like they were twigs.

Such power but also a gentleness.  We never even thought to be nervous

How can you resist this face

He looks like he is saying I did not do it

Very entertaining gorilla pole dancing

A mothers face

Just hanging out.  There were so many gorillas to watch and all in such close proximity it was just unbelievable.  Two in our group were even brushed by gorillas. The amazing thing in all of this is that the gorilla do not seem in the least bit bothered by our presence.  They do not intentionally reach out and touch, they do seem to look at you sometimes but not in a threatening way.  It truly is an experience of a lifetime and one that is impossible to put into words when the guide says that the hour is up and that we must leave it is with great reluctance that we take our last looks at these magnificent primates that live free in these mountains hopefully for centuries to come.  

As we start down the mountain my knee lets me know with every step it is not happy but I can grit my teeth until I am faced with a steep downhill and admit a need a break to prepare and our guide insists I need a Rawandan helicopter and against my protests two strong porters form a chair with their arms and whisk me down the hill.  I do insist on walking most of the way. But every once and awhile on declines or river crossings before I know it I am off my feet and over to the other side.  They were so cheerful and helpful that it did make it easier and the guide even told me I should let myself be treated like a queen.  

My two angels.  At the end of the trek our porters who were both named John were quite delighted with the tip we gave them which was the equivalent of three days pay which we felt they more than earned!

That evening we finished of with a birthday celebration for Garth. A very fitting time to visiti the gorillas for his special day.

Rwanda

Flying out of Tanzania our farewell glimpse was of the peak of Mt Kilimanjaro rising majesticly above the clouds. Was exciting to get to see this mountain that so many dream about.  Landing in Kigali was quite a contrast from where we had been in Tanzania.  In the center of the city the buildings were modern and the streets were devised with sidewalks and crosswalks.  The motorcycle riders all had helmets on and there were only two on any given cycle.  There was a very large police presence but all appeared peaceful.

Modern high rises in Kigali

Houses started to change and the economic level became more apparent the farther one got out of the city

Out further still residents have fewer amenities 

Other than motorcycles most of the vehicles you see on the roads are tourism.  The local people mostly walk and often quite long distances. Young children walk up to 5 kilometers to school and school starts at 0730 so the streets are busy early in the morning.  People here are adept at carrying all sorts of things expertly on their heads while they walk along the roadside often with a baby tied to their back.

These two women were far from any village so had a long way to go with their bundles.

Coming home from working in the farm with produce, tool, and baby.  No wonder they all have such good posture.

Our main purpose for coming to Rwanda was to visit with the Mountain Gorillas.  You go early in the morning to the ranger station where you have rebooked,usually months in advance, and in groups of eight you are assigned to a gorilla family.  There are eight of us traveling together so we made the perfect group and our Rwandan guides some how got us the sought after gorilla family that has the four month old twins as well as several other youngsters and two silverbacks.  Excitement and anticipation ran high as we set off in our vehicles to our starting point which was in a tiny village where we met our porters and started our climb up into the park.  Trackers start very early through the night and track each gorilla group so that the ranger will know where to take his people and we had been told that we would hike an hour up to the park and than an hour to the gorillas.  It was a grueling hike for a few reasons with the first being altitude.  By the time we reached the gorilla we were at 10000 feet and my lungs felt every one of them. The terrain was every thing from rocky to inches of mud to macheted forest plants and branches.  The only thing it had in common was that it was all uphill and the gorillas kept moving and instead of the original hour they thought it would be once we entered the park it took 3 1/4 making it the hardest 4 1/4 hours I have ever done. If not for the porters I would never have made it. They were absolutely fantastic.  I must admit I did a little praying along the way as well.  The minute we reached the gorillas everything was worthwhile. It was the most incredible experience to be up so close and personal with these magnificent creatures in the total wild.  They would look at us but it seemed like they really did not care that we were in their home and we were welcome to stay for a short while.  You are allowed exactly one hour once you reach the family and that time goes oh so fast.

These two were just having some fun before settling down for a nap

A mom and baby with a silver back on either side

Love this baby face

Silverback has a great face 

One gorilla was sitting on the forest floor right beside our feet and one could have touched her which you would never do.  One of the big risks to these primates is the transmission of disease from humans which is why a distance is supposed to be kept but it was the gorilla who came to us not the other way around.

Eric with the sleeping gorillas.

One of the highlights of this gorilla family was the mother and her twins and not long before our hour was up she got up and gave us the most amazing sight.  The twins were both nursing and the tenderness with which the mother gorilla held those babies and wrapped her arms around them left no doubt that she felt total love in her heart for her children.  It was a totaling heartwarming sight and made leaving the gorillas even harder especially knowing that we had to go down what we had come up.

Mom and twins

I swear she is kissing them

A tender maternal hug.  What a sight to see and in the wild how lucky we are.

We feel so blessed to have had this amazing experience.  Only eight groups of eight get to do this each day in Rwanda so it is a very limited experience.  The money raised goes to gorilla conservation and to the people of the area who desperately need it for infrastructure and jobs.  As an example the porters who was my savior works for 10 dollars a day though I must say mine certainly got more than that as he made my experience possible.  Traveling certainly opens ones eyes to how lucky we are to have been born and raised where we were.