Beechey Island

Thursday September 7th we visited Beechey Island which holds a significant place in the history books as it is here that the Franklin Expedition spent their first winter.  Three of the members of the Expedition died and are buried here in marked graves.  Beechey Island is a small island only 2500 meters across above the waters of Lancaster Sound off the southwestern tip of Devon Island.  In 1952-1953 W J S Pullen on the HMS North Star led the final British Admiralty’s search for Franklin and his crew.  They built Northumberland house on Beechey Island which was to serve as a supply house for the Franklin Expedition if they were to return here. It was stocked with food, coal and barrels of rum.  Polar bear eventually ate the food but never did touch the rum.

Beechey island is composed of small rocks above the permafrost which with its varying temperatures have given it a rolly uneven surface with indents almost like potholes.  At one end a tombolo stretches out towards Devon Island giving you the impression you could almost walk across.  The grave sites are quite stark on the barren landscape and one can not help but stand and contemplate what hardships these young men endured in such an unforgiving environment.  We all had every layer currently available yet some still felt the cold and it is only September and we went back to a heated ship so to us it was unimaginable.  Did they have any idea what lay ahead when they left England?

Northumberland House still has some remaining structure standing 170 years later.  The beach is littered with dozens of rusty rings which were the tops and bottoms of barrels.  The island is a protected archaeological site and it was incredible to visit

On our return to the ship the crew had prepared a wonderful BBQ complete with white tablecloth outdoor seating but unfortunately a bitter wind had come up and except for a hearty few most gathered our food and retreated inside to the warmth to enjoy our food, something those on Beechey Island so long ago did not have the luxury of doing.

Landing on Beechey Island 

First visit was to the grave sites. The fourth grave on the far right was that of a sailor from the North Star in 1856

One of the headstones. Just 20 years old!

Forever resting by the Nortwest Passage for which they were searching

The tombolo with Devon Island in the distance 

The remains of an ancient tenting site

Fine rocky surface with a wavy pattern and low hills in the background 

Arctic plants push their way through the rocks

As winter sets in the plants are turning to seed puffs

Little balls of cotton amongst the stones

Coral fossils found along the beach

Hiking towards Northumberland House

Empty food cans strewn along the landscape

A memorial to Joseph Bellot whom the strait was named for

The remains of Northumberland House. The black in the foreground is coal

One can still see the remains of the coal burning stove used for cooking and heat as well as lots of the rusted barrel rings

Northumberland House as it appeared in 1875

A view of th harbour and Devon Island with our ship at anchor from the top of the hill on Beechey Island taken by Eric when he did the extreme hike.

The Franklin cairn which was at the top of the hill for other sailors to see. The tall mast has fallen. When those looking for Franklin came across this they were hoping to find some documentation with some clues as to his whereabouts but nothing was found.