Qaanaaq, Greenland

Monday, September 11th we left Canada and crossed over to Greenland.  Greenland is the largest island in the world and is part of Denmark but has been under it’s own control since 1979.  It has a population of 57,000 people living in coastal towns as 80% is covered with a massive ice sheet that measure 700,000 square miles.  The number of icebergs that we are encountering is large as this is where they calf off of the massive glaciers and float out to sea.  Greenland also has the largest national park in the world but as it is mostly covered in ice I am sure it is not the most visited.

As we could not visit Gris Fjord the expedition team quickly got in touch with the people of Qannaaq to see if they coul accommodate us and they did more than that.  They welcomed us with open arms and proudly shared their heritage and culture with us. Coming into the bay in the early morning we were surrounded by snow capped mountains and there were icebergs all around the ship. Withe the addition of the early morning light it was just magical.

We arrived on shore by zodiac for a typical wet landing   Thank heaven for the supplied rubber boots!  We walked about the town of 600 people enjoying the multi coloured homes and buildings as well as the friendly smiles and greetings from the residents. After a visit to the church which they had open especially for us we went to their gym where they put on a cultural display.  Crafts people were selling their crafts and it was interesting to see what they make with skins and tusks of the animals.  There was also a lot of bead work.  One of the elders entertained us with song and drumming that had been passed down from his grandfather.  They stories were interrupted by a younger member of the town. When he sang the emotion he put into each word was so heartfelt.  Two young hunters showed a slide show of hunting methods for walrus and narwhal in this area using dogsled and kayaks. It is legislated by the government that all such hunting much be done in the traditional ways.  They had a sled and kayak present in the gym for us to see firsthand.  A couple of the young men put on a display of some of the events that take place in the Arctic games.  It was a very interesting display and all questions were welcomed and answered. A great learning experience.

After the cultural display we toured more of the town visiting the small but very well stocked local museum. They are very proud of the large piece of the Cape York Meteorite ,which fell to earth over10,000 years ago, and is the only existing piece outside the Smithsonian.  A visit to the ladies sewing house was very informative as they showed us examples of the clothing they still make today from the animal skins for warmth in the bitter winters.  The views from the town out over the bay which is dotted with icebergs is spectacular. This same bay will soon be covered with thick ice and dog sled teams will pull the hunters over it to their destinations.

The remainder of the cruising day was spent listening to various lectures on Arctic life while bundling up to go out and marvel at the passing icebergs that the Captain often passed by very closely.

Arriving in the bay in the early morning 

Was worth being on deck at 0545

The town awaiting our arrival 

The homes were very colourful and many were freshly painted 

The scenery from the town was picturesque 

The roads were a little muddy but they will soon be frozen solid for most of the year

The church sits alone on the hill

The inside of the church was simple but welcoming. Would have loved to have seen it in the dark with the electric candles on

The school was quite large and had a small play yard for the younger children but certainly no playing fields

The police station tells us their force must be very small

The elder who entertained us with stories and drum singing all in the native language 

The kayaks used for hunting

Heading out to the hunting grounds. They have their kayaks on the sled as well as their power boat which they are allowed to use to retrieve the narwhal once it is dead

The hunters sled

Narwhal tusks drying at a hunters home

The piece of the Cape York Meteorite composed highly of iron

The variety of colours are a delight with the beautiful bay in the background 

The supply ship arrived the same day we did and the bathe from the ship spent several hours unloading supplies for the winter when this whole bay will be frozen

The children at the school were concentrating more on us than on their studies

Traditional polar bear pants made at the women’s sewing house. One could have bought a pair but a little warm for our climate

A child’s jacket made from Arctic Fox 

Departing Qaanaaq we passed many glaciers tucked into mountain crevices 

A stunning coastline 

The Captain loves to get up close and personal with the icebergs